Sunday—November 29, 1998
Trail Day—288/1
Trail Mile—4227/13
Location—Game Check Station, Miccosukee Indian
Reservation, Loop Road and Tamiami Trail
As you can see, I have taken a break for
much-needed time to be with family and friends after
returning from Canada. Ahh, and in that journey there’s
another whole adventure, one that I’ll tell you a little
about as we hike along, completing these last 175 miles of
roadwalk down into and through the beautiful Florida Keys.
For it had dawned on me while early-on in Canada—that upon
reaching the Cliffs of Forillon at Cap Gaspe, Quebec—that at
that point I would have indeed hiked most-near the entire
eastern continent, save this short stretch from where the
Florida National Scenic Trail begins near the lands of the
Miccosukee Nation west of Miami, down to Key West. So, I’d
already set in my mind to return to Loop Road, thence to
complete this incredible odyssey by hiking to the monument
marking the southernmost point of the eastern North American
Continent in Key West.
I have spent the better part of this day
leaning back against my pack, which is strapped to the rear
fender of Erv Daley’s motorcycle. Erv, a great motorcycle
racing buddy of many years just so happened to be heading
this way to visit friends, so he’d offered me a ride on his
BMW and he now drops me off at the old familiar FT trail
marker here on Loop Road. Thanks Erv!
As we get older, I suppose we tend to get
more sentimental and more emotional about things. I remember
watching that happen to my folks, to many dear friends…and
now so-it-seems, to myself. For here I stand, hearkened back
to the last time I stood at this very spot. That seems a
long, long time ago now, a totally different lifetime. So
many things have happened to me since then, things that have
changed my life forever. But as I reflect back I realize
that it has been only a short eleven months; for I was last
here with Jon. The pickup tailgate was down and after we had
lingered and talked for quite awhile, I dragged my pack out,
shouldered it and snapped the buckle. Then after a good hug
from Jon and after much hesitancy and reluctance I stepped
down into the submerged treadway to head north into the
unknown. By trail, that was over 4000 miles ago, 287 days
ago—and the good Lord only knows how many buckle snaps ago.
It is so bewildering how the pathway of life winds, how we
weave our way as God guides us along. Today I will not be
stepping down into it, but I can see as the trail heads
north, where I had turned for one last glimpse back at my
dear son Jon as he stood by his truck with the most forlorn
and puzzled expression of sadness on his face.
I hear the last fading “thrump, thrump”
from Erv’s cycle as he heads on west, just as did Jon on
that day long ago, leaving me to the silence and to this
trail. As I stand here trembling I must go down on one knee
to steady myself, and finally to all fours. I crawl to the
edge of the road by the old FT sign. Here I peer down into
the water where the treadway begins and where this
unbelievable odyssey began. As I look, I do not recognize
the strange face staring back at me from this watery mirror,
such a different face, one that should be familiar but is
not. The image fades in and out and floats in a ghostly veil
as my tears cascade to break the surface. Ahh, but do I
finally recognize the face, after being locked in a gaze of
disbelief for such a long time. For it is now I see Jon’s
face formed and transformed into mine—looking back at me
with that forlorn yet familiar puzzled expression of
sadness—to finally sigh, and so-it-seems for just a brief
moment does the broken mirror reflects a soft, loving smile.
Dear Lord, I pray that someday I will understand.
I stumble along Loop Road in a daze,
trying to get back into stride after being away from the
trail for nearly a month. I manage to make the 13 miles to
the game check station at the intersection of Loop Road and
Tamiami Trail where I arrive in the dark and am invited to
spend the evening with attendants Dave and Carol Balman from
Miami.
“For the test of the heart is trouble,
And it always comes with the years,
And the smile that is worth the praises of earth
Is the smile that shines through tears.”
[Ella Wheeler Wilcox]
Monday—November 30, 1998
Trail Day—289/2
Trail Mile—4260/33
Location—Behind Truckstop, US41 and Krome Avenue
I enjoyed a great evening last talking
with the Balmans, their friends and many hunters, all the
while being fed great quantities of food by the Balmans. The
Miccosukee people are proud and gentlefolk. Through the
kindness of the Balmans I was able to roll out my pad and
sleeping bag in the game check screened enclosure. What a
blessing to be provided shelter from the mosquitoes this
very first night.
I have been dreading this hike today.
Before me awaits a 20 mile roadwalk along busy US41 all the
way to Krome Avenue, the very outskirts of Miami. But I find
as I hike along the fully-paved emergency lane that I am
provided fair distance from the traffic, and the cars and
commercial vehicles are moving at a reasonable pace so I’m
not taking the buffeting and pounding I had feared. On my
journey east this morning I pass many airboat concessions,
all managed and run by the Miccosukee people. As I hike
along, a particularly interesting and colorful little
roadside catches my eye. Since I need water and a break from
the sweltering sun I pull off to take a look. As I enter, a
young lady and an old Indian gentleman greet me. They are
talking with a fellow who appears to be a tourist, so I
lounge and look around.
At first glance, the place appears much
like any other touristy knickknack place, but as I look
closer, do I realize that none of this stuff is for sale. In
reality it is more a museum, with stuffed critters on the
high shelves and all around, with faded old newspaper
clippings and articles tacked to the wall. One particular
clipping catches my eye. It is about the Miccosukee Nation
and their people. Beside the story is this picture of a
young Miccosukee Chief. As I read the article, continuing to
glance back up at the faded yellow picture, does it seem
that I should know this man, as if we have actually met
somewhere long ago. In a moment the young lady comes over
and with a full-beaming smile says, “That’s a great article
about Chief Buffalo Tiger, isn’t it?” Smiling back—you
cannot help but smile back—I say, “Yes ma’am, but who is
Buffalo Tiger?” She replies, “Why that’s the Chief right
over there!” Ahh, so now I know where I’ve seen the young
man in the picture. But that picture was taken many years
ago of a man who is now very old! As she tells the story
about Buffalo Tiger I become intrigued with the delightful
history of it and I ask if I might meet and talk with the
chief when he and the young man have concluded their
conversation.
To my surprise the Indian girl turns and
goes straightaway to the chief, she interrupts him and
brings him directly to me. The young man follows along
behind. After the introduction I manage to apologize to both
for the interruption. It is such an honor to meet this man,
but the Chief seems much more taken by meeting me and asks
many questions. To my amazement he is really the first
during this entire odyssey, the first to look directly at my
feet and inquire as to their well being! “You have traveled
a great distance, do your feet not suffer?” says the Chief.
As I reply, I am thinking, “Ahh, here is a man who
understands…who truly understands!”
The highway before me is straight as an
arrow with the utility poles continuing to march ever ahead,
tapering and merging to a blurred point as the sweltering
mirage of heat lifts the road to dance and bounce to the
horizon. The hypnotic-like trance caused by the rhythm of my
poles clicking the pavement and the constant whoosh of
passing traffic is finally interrupted by an eastbound
vehicle that catches my eye. It passes but then slows
abruptly, to turn full around and return along the
guardrail. The passenger window goes down as I stoop to look
across at the driver. Oh my, it is the young man who had
been talking to Buffalo Tiger. He says, “I really enjoyed
the account of your story as you talked with the Chief
today. My name is Mark Baker and I am the producer for WPBT,
public television in Miami.” I quickly find that Mark has
many questions to ask, but since it is getting toward late
afternoon I explain that I must keep moving for I have many
more miles yet to cover before dark. Mark then inquires as
to my planned route to Key West and asks if it would be okay
to return and look for me tomorrow. These most tentative
arrangements being made we bid farewell and I head on east
as my lengthening shadow travels and leaps far ahead…toward
the shimmering and shadowy horizon.
“What God is doing you may not know
now;
But someday you’ll understand why.
Questions that taunt you and trouble your mind
Will one day have heaven’s reply.”
[Clair Hess]
Tuesday—December 1, 1998
Trail Day—290/3
Trail Mile—4278/51
Location—SR997, Homestead, Bel Air Motel
The Miccosukee Nation has an absolute
gambling empire going at the northwest corner of Krome
Avenue and Tamiami Trail. The searchlights illuminate the
entire sky. I guess this corner is the international
boundary between their country and the good old USofA.
Anyway, I had a devil of a time getting through the traffic
at the intersection. Everybody was heading for the casino. I
finally managed to get across to the southeast corner where
I settled in behind the truckstop. After setting up camp in
some bushes on a little mound of coquina fill I gave Nina
Dupuy a call; she’s the southern Everglades FT Section
Leader. I had talked to Nina many times by phone while
planning this odyssey over a year ago, but I had never met
her. She made it out later and we had a grand evening
talking trail. Back then to my little hideaway behind the
truckstop I was quickly lulled to sleep by the steady,
monotonous drone of the idling diesel engines.
Here at Krome Avenue I turn south,
heading straight for Key West. I manage to get out early,
but as soon as the sun catches hold and the humidity gets
pumping, the road quickly turns to a frying pan. The trucks
are out early too, and the road shoulder is dreadfully
narrow, with guardrails that keep vehicles from plunging
into the ever-present drainage canals, scant feet from the
busy roadway. I haven’t gone two miles when I start picking
up change lying along the road. A buck-fifty in all
scattered for the better part of a mile. It starts with
quarters, then nickels and dimes to finally trickle off with
a bunch of pennies. On the roadwalk today I pass miles and
miles of truckfarms. All kinds of vegetables, pick your own
or buy great quantities at the little makeshift roadside
stands. I know I’m still in the United States but I don’t
understand the language.
About halfway to Homestead and clicking
along in a total daze I am hailed by a couple of fellows in
a little white van. There’s some writing on the side, WPBT
Channel 2, and I recognize Mark. Dang, I can’t believe this.
He has actually come all the way back out here to track me
down, and he’s got a cameraman and a van full of TV gear
with him! They pull off by a convenience store and I cross
over to be greeted immediately by two beaming smiles as Mark
introduces me to Allan Farrell. Well, I’m in good shape now
and on schedule to get on down to Homestead by early
evening…and I did promise Mark that I would talk with him
today. So we find a little shade and I drop my pack. Allan
gets right to setting up the TV camera and Mark starts off
quite gently with the questions. Oh, and these are new
questions besides the usual “where’ya been and where’ya
going?” I had misgivings yesterday evening when I consented
to talk with Mark today. I got to thinking how I don’t need
a bunch of hype and confusion on top of all the clatter I’m
already having to deal with, especially this late in the
trek. I really want to be by myself now, to try and digest
all that has occurred over these last remarkable eleven
months. But am I ever surprised, for I find both Mark and
Allan to be two of the most laid-back fellows I've met since
leaving the AT! We have a most quiet and enjoyable time
together. They get a mile of footage…plus what seems a mile
of me hiking alongside the road. Before parting, I agree to
call Mark the day before I arrive in Key West. Seems they
want to come all the way to Key West, that roundtrip
requiring an entire day, to film me completing this
incredible odyssey at the southernmost monument.
Nearing Homestead the playful ribbing
from passing motorists begins…”Hey old man, there ain’t no
snow down here!” These folks are obviously not used to
seeing a backpacker popping along with trekking poles!
“And if, through patient toil, we reach
the land
Where tired feet, with sandals loosed, may rest,
When we shall clearly see and understand,
I think that we will say, ‘God knew the best."
[May Riley Smith]
Wednesday—December 2, 1998
Trail Day—291/4
Trail Mile—4301/74
Location—Key Largo, the beach at Neptune’s Hideaway, next
by Hobo Bar and Grill, MM103
The folks at Bel Air Motel treated me
most kindly last evening with a very special rate for the ol’
Nomad. I’m out early, over to Sam’s Restaurant for a fine
breakfast, then I’m on my way south again. I am excited yet
very anxious about this day, for I will be hiking the
shoulders of busy US1 which will lead me across a scary
23-mile desolate expanse, a literal no-man’s-land by
foot—all the way to the first Florida Key, Key Largo. It is
interesting that I’m back on US1 again. This will be my
second trek o’er this famous byway, having hiked its path on
the extreme northern end, clear up in the far reaches of
Maine. In between, this odyssey has led me west into the
Central Time zone, then all the way back east into the
Atlantic Time zone, to finally return and settle me now,
back into good old Eastern Time.
Today I’m hiking across the eastern-most
reaches of The Everglades: River of Grass, as
described in the delightful book written by “The Lady of the
Glades,” Marjory Stoneman Douglas. Here is a vast, mostly
untamed area of south Florida’s subtropics known to the
Indians as Pahayokee, or “the grassy waters.” This
remarkable place is still home to nearly 300 varieties of
birds, 600 kinds of fish and more than 40 indigenous species
of plants. But today, for the entire day, I will primarily
see man’s invasive presence in this grand
scheme—hypnotically gazing the highway before me as it
merges to a quivering and seemingly endless point on the
horizon.
As I hike along, stooping to pick up more
change from time-to-time, I keep reminding myself that I
will soon be in America’s winter playground, the beautiful
Florida Keys. Just before turning the bend and heading
southwest onto Key Largo I’m jolted from my dreamy little
bubble as my attention is drawn to an old pickup as it comes
screeching and grinding to a most ungraceful halt on the
shoulder behind me. I stop and turn to see a grizzly-looking
chap emerge from the whirl of dust. He greets me with, “Did
you hike the AT this summer?” I reply, “Why yes I did, and
I’m still going.” With a broad beaming smile now he says,
“Well, so did I, you must be the Nomad, I’ve heard about
you.” Well, dang, here we go again—so now bracing the blast
from the trucks and busses whizzing by I shake hands with
Gecko Goat, one of the most notorious members of all the
Hiker Trash Fratority! We laugh as we shake hands, only to
shake our heads—and reminisce for the longest time. Thanks
for stopping Gecko. What a joy finally seeing someone who
hasn’t felt compelled to ask me about my ski poles! I’m sure
we’ll meet again on up the trail, take care Gecko!
I am rewarded for my hike today in such a
noble way. I’m forty-one cents richer, the change in my
pocket to show, and now before me is this wide and expansive
walkway to hike on through Key Largo. I pull in for the
evening right next the Hobo Bar and Grill (how appropriate),
here to be greeted by Angie at Neptune’s Hideaway. I’m
immediately blessed as I’m offered my own little hideaway
under the coconut palms, right on their beautiful, sandy
gulfside beach and I quickly pitch my tent for the evening.
Then to head over—oh yes—to the Hobo Bar and Grill! This
frolic through the Keys is going to be a hoot, I just know
it…I can see it all now!
There comes a time reward seems due
Those toughing the trials at hand;
‘Cause from the lot the Lord’s picked few,
To lead the banner and band.
[N. Nomad]
Thursday—December 3, 1998
Trail Day—292/5
Trail Mile—4318/92
Location—Islamorada, abutment under Hawk Channel Bridge,
MM86
No problem blending in down here, beard,
long hair and all. Conversation is easy and I could just as
easy be local. A little more sun (which will certainly be no
problem) and I’ll be a Parrothead for sure! Aww man, I see
now why Jimmy loves and lives this place! Changes in
latitude bring changes in attitude…ooh yes! I manage to get
up, go for a quick swim and then get halfway cranking. I’m
moving a little slow, caused by a little too good-of-a-time
at the old Hobo Bar and Grill last. I was sloshin’ and
healin’ to port pretty bad by the time I got back to
beachside. Just had a few beers, that’s it—sure glad I
stayed away from Margaritaville!
Within the hour this morning I pull
alongside the oceanside Holiday Isle Resort. This is a grand
old (but just the lease bit) seedy highrise hotel. Tourists
are all about and there is much activity. I can’t resist
heading over. On the way I’m thinking, “Nomad, you Hiker
Trash bum, you’re going to get your butt tossed right out of
this place.” But then I decide, “Ahh what the heck, go ahead
old man, go for it!” And oh my, what a beautiful thing. This
has got to be what all the snowbirds up north are dreaming
of—white sandy beaches, two tropical pools, five
restaurants, a full-service marina, all kinds of water fun
(the personal watercraft are already buzzing about) and the
world famous Tiki Bar (which I wisely avoid).
Well, so far so good, so I decide to go
for the finest of the fine…the penthouse Horizon Restaurant!
I still haven’t removed my backpack as I enter the classy
glass elevator. On the way up I decide not to push my luck
so I drop my pack and remove my sweaty headband. As the
elevator stops and the door opens I’m immediately greeted by
the hostess and just as quickly by the cashier. Both give me
a beaming smile and warm greetings. Here I meet Karin Wehner
and Erica McDonald. I had figured the place would be packed,
what with the breakfast crowd and all, but to my surprise
only a couple of tables over to one side are occupied. After
propping my pack down the way Karin escorts me in. I can’t
believe it, she’s taking me straight to front and center,
right to the table by the plate glass window, the finest in
the whole place! From here I am afforded the most remarkable
view o’er the entire resort and the ocean below. The table
before me is set with the finest linen and silver—and comes
the waiter directly with a chilled goblet of icewater. The
girls continue to smile at me and the waiter is also
beaming. You’d think their “ship” had just come in and I was
the first mate!
Karin decides to wait on me and she comes
to take my order. After rattling off a bunch of fancy menu
items I explain that good old bacon, eggs and plenty of
fried potatoes will work just fine. Of course by now she’s
asked to hear my story, and while my breakfast is being
prepared the word quickly gets around to all the help, and
definitely to the cook, for Karin soon sets before me a
heaping plate of grub, certainly not the style for this kind
of fine establishment. Well folks, okay, certainly you know,
and it just goes to show how wacky our take on any given
situation can sometimes be, how it seems we have not a clue!
These gracious and kind folks were happy to see me and they
were obviously more than pleased to have me as their guest.
In fact, that’s exactly how it all turned out—I was their
guest, because they would accept no payment for their
service nor for the wonderful breakfast prepared for me.
What an amazing time at the Horizon Restaurant! Back on the
highway and heading on south, and in a few moments do I turn
to look back at the grand old place, to take it all in one
last time…and wouldn’t you know? There they stand at the
Horizon Restaurant’s penthouse window, waving goodbye.
Thanks dear friends, thank you for your kindness and your
most gracious hospitality!
As I hike along today enjoying the warmth
of the sun…‘tis now I see another one lying by the side of
the road; I saw two or three yesterday. Oh my, I know
there’s no way you’ll buy this, but please believe me, it’s
true. There’s positively no way I could ever make this stuff
up. And just what is it that I’ve been seeing lying along
the way? Beer cans folks…beer cans. “Big deal,” you say.
Well yes, this is a big deal—because these beer cans all
have straws sticking out of them—yes, straws! We’ve all seen
people pulling on a can of sody pop with a straw, but
sipping beer from a straw! See what I mean? Beats me! The
Keys—Ahh yes folks, here’s a totally different and most
remarkable place. If you haven’t been down here you’ve just
gotta get it—then maybe, just maybe, you’ll understand!
What an absolutely blue-perfect day this
has been. The Keys are gonna be all I’d hoped for, all I’d
dreamed they could be…and then some!
The folks in the Keys quite
interestingly, sip their beer through a straw;
They scorch their fish four shades of black, yet eat their
shellfish raw.
Indeed they’re as kind as any you’ll find ‘long mainstreet
USofA.
They’ll stop to help a stranger along, even give’m the time
a’day.
The weather down here? Hey, fine all year—‘cept for the
hurricane;
But the locals’ll hunker and ride ‘er out through the roar
and the walls a’rain.
No finer place will you find on the face—of this earth, for
your holiday.
The weather’s warm and the local charm boasts a paradise for
play.
So, come on down…jes’ lounge ‘round, and let ol’ Sol kick
in;
Twill warm your heart and your bones’ll start to feel like
they’ll work a’gin.
Yeah, folks done questioned my sanity, but the smartest
thing I done,
Was to save the last o’this odyssey for the Keys and the
tropical sun.
[N. Nomad]
Friday—December 4, 1998
Trail Day—293/6
Trail Mile—4338/112
Location—Long Key, the beach by Long Key Channel Bridge,
MM66
Traffic runs all night in the Keys, even
the eighteen wheelers—especially the eighteen wheelers. Most
folks down here probably don’t notice, but when you’re six
feet under, on an abutment directly beneath the bridge as I
was last night, the tank battalion rumbling right above,
you’re inclined to notice! From a far distance I could hear
the heavy artillery haulers coming long before they shook
and vibrated my bones. Their assaults began with a low, sort
of harmonic rumble, hardly perceptible. Then the slow,
ever-building crescendo presented. Finally came the grand
crashing and eruption of it in a cacophonous, Richter-seven
bombardment—the projectile dropping straight in. Oh but gee,
isn’t it so remarkable, and haven’t we all marveled at the
incredibly adaptive tolerance that’s built into our mental
and biological computer systems! For it was, that after
about the forth or twentieth of those microcosmic
earthquakes, all caused by the tractor-trailers rumblings
overhead, did I drift into the most pleasant and
dream-propelled sleep.
I’m awakened this morning by fisherman
passing through Hawk Channel. The morning is dawning cool
and clear and I’m out to a diamond-crystal haze-free day in
the Florida Keys. As I head ever south I am greeted and then
caressed by the soft, warm, sun and a most-gentle tropical
breeze. Before me now are there such remarkably dazzling
jewels of azure and turquoise, a sky so clear and
transparent as to make its presence intimately close, so
near that I can clutch it, much like a silken veil…and
beside and before me to the horizon is the lenticular sea,
so remarkably crystalline and pellucid as to appear much as
a mirror of the boundless sky.
The hike today crosses the narrow and
beautiful keys of the Upper and Lower Matacumbes and the day
has turned perfect, another take-it-for-granted day in the
Keys. Soon I reach Islamorada. I can use some coated aspirin
so over to Eckerds I go. No sooner do I get through the door
than the pharmacist comes right away to assist me. “You a
hiker?” he says. No rush now, so I give the guy my full
pitch; he listens in astonishment. “What’s your trail name?”
he asks. “I’m the Nimblewill Nomad,” I respond. He then
replies, “Well, I’m Church Mouse, class of ’97.” Glory be!
Turns out he not only hiked with but became good friends
with Thunder Chicken. Okay, okay, I won’t say it!
The day passes quickly, and turning onto
Fiesta Key I soon arrive at Long Key State Recreation Area.
On the south end and just before the bridge to Conch Key,
one of the local conchs shows me a narrow path leading from
the highway to the most picturesque and secluded beach. Here
is a serene and peaceful paradise…just for me for the
evening. I pitch right on the beach as the sun sets fire to
the sea across the beautiful Straits of Florida. No incoming
artillery tonight, just the peaceful lullaby played by the
rhythmic waves of the sea gently caressing the sands along
the beach at Long Key.
“Perhaps the music that only I hear
Is meant for dreamers like me
Who love the harmony of the waves
As they rush in and out the sea.”
[Emma Gwillim]
Saturday—December 5, 1998
Trail Day—294/7
Trail Mile—4355/129
Location—South Marathon, dried-in townhouse near Seven
Mile Bridge, MM49
It is another blue-perfect day in the
Florida Keys and as my trekking poles click away at the
pavement, the miles click away beneath my feet. The journey
south today takes me over Conch Key, Grassy Key and Crawl
Key, all the way to Marathon. I begin to sense now the end
of this journey, for today the remaining miles will drop
below 50…less than 50 miles to go in a total of over 4400
miles, less than three days in a total of nearly 300. And as
the rhythmic motion of hiking this pavement lulls me into a
dream-like state, not uncommon to roadwalking, my thoughts
drift back and I return to the days spent with all the great
friends I have made and all the memorable times I’ve
had…like reaching Katahdin. What an emotional time and so,
too, for the ending in Canada.
Oh, that final day in Canada, my 60th
birthday, what a grand and memorable time. I was
whisked away to the beautiful DeChamplain home in Matane,
there to remain the guest of those kind French Canadians for
the whole of the weekend. They devoted their entire time to
me, they hosted me, lavished me with gifts, introduced me to
their friends, entertained and dined me, escorted me around,
acted as my interpreters, and even helped me make the
transition back into the real world as I shopped for and
tried to find a pair of pants and a shirt, clothing that
seemed so out of place to me after the meager trail gear I
had become so accustomed to over the past ten months. These
dear friends then took another entire day to drive me back
to Matapedia, PQ and to Pete Dube’s delightful Restigouche
Hotel.
Pete, as usual, was glad to see me again
and to again put me up as his guest…and again he insisted
that I stay. So I accepted his kind hospitality for the
better part of four days as he, Gaby, Richard and I had a
grand time. Bruno and David had invited me to celebrate with
them upon the completion of my journey in Canada, so to
Bruno and Carole’s house I went one evening to enjoy such a
grand time with these kind and generous friends. After
resting a couple more days and enjoying Pete’s company,
Maurice came from Kedgwick, NB to pick me up and take me to
Madeleine’s place in Madawasca. Madeleine then drove me back
to the border at Fort Fairfield where yet another dear
friend, Rod Newton, greeted me.
After spending the night at Rod’s we
headed into Presque Isle, Maine to shop for a junk car to
get me back to Georgia. That didn’t take long as Rod helped
me come up with a very fine and very cheap clunker…good
tires, new battery, power everything, the works, for four
hundred bucks! I could have taken a bus from there back to
Georgia, but I wanted to take my time heading back south,
stopping to see friends and family along the way, and to
share the joy that’s come to me, the result of this
incredible odyssey…and that’s just what I did, and it worked
so well. I stopped first in Portland where Dick Anderson had
a huge reception for me at his office. Here I got to meet
many of the great folks who are building the International
Appalachian Trail in Maine. And here at the reception what a
joy it was seeing my dear friend Easy Rider again! He
invited me to spend the night at his place and he, Nikki and
I had the finest time…and I finally got to hear Easy Rider
play and sing. What an incredible talent.
From Maine it was on to Stickman’s lovely
home in Freeport, NH and from there back to Graymoor in
Garrison, NY to visit Father Fred. The next day I traveled
on to Milton, PA to see Ronnie Spotts, an old teenage buddy,
and what a joy getting into Hummelstown, PA to see 100#
Stormcloud again. From here I drove to Maryland to see dear
family members, Mary and Margie who had come all the way to
Harpers Ferry to get me for the 4th of July, a wonderfully
planned reunion that was not to be because of my stupidity.
In Virginia I was able to see Larry Amos, an old childhood
chum that I hadn’t seen in over forty years, and he, Mary
his wife, and I shared a very happy time. I had missed going
into Rusty’s Hard Time Hollow on my way north, so I wheeled
in there to spend some time and to get to know this
interesting and friendly man. My final stop was back in Hot
Springs where I was welcomed most enthusiastically again…and
hosted again by Elmer Hall at Sunnybank Inn.
I am jolted back to the day and away from
this nostalgic dreaming by an old buggy full of teenagers.
They want to have a little fun with the old hobo walking
along with the "ski poles.” That’s okay, kids, have a good
laugh on the old Nomad! I’m in north Marathon now and the
street markers start clicking away, 125th street, 110th
street, 83rd street, 64th street, and finally I pass mile
marker 50. Just ahead is the Seven Mile Bridge and it’s too
late in the day to tackle that thing and the traffic is
running hard and steady, so I hang a left onto a street
where new townhouses are being built. I find one that’s
most-near dried in, no doors or windows yet. No one’s about,
this being Saturday, so I head up to find the perfect place
for the evening. I had indulged myself earlier, enjoying a
fine meal at a local mom-n-pop in Marathon, so my tummy’s
full and I’m snug and content. This has been a delightful
and most memorable day hiking the Florida Keys.
“Out of the hinterwhere into the yon—
Where all the friends of your youth have gone—
Where the old schoolmate who laughed with you
Will laugh again, as he used to do.”
[James Whitcomb Riley]
Sunday—December 6, 1998
Trail Day—295/8
Trail Mile—4376/150
Location—Little Torch Key, Abutment under Torch Channel
Bridge, MM28
The hike south today takes me across the
Seven Mile Bridge and the Keys of Little Duck, Missouri,
Ohio, Bahia Honda, Spanish Harbor, West Summerland and Big
Pine. Upon crossing Seven Mile Bridge, one is considered to
be entering the “Lower Keys.” As to this island chain, these
are the largest and least developed. This area, and on to
Key West is the locale sought by the true Parrotheads who
want to get away from it all. Here lie the most tropic of
the sub-tropics, home to the famed Key deer, the beautiful
great white heron, the ubiquitous pelican, the raucous gull,
the rare American crocodile and a myriad of other unique and
exotic marine, amphibious, and earthbound plants and
animals.
There are many different ways to see and
experience the Keys. From Miami you might choose to fly,
which will require less than an hour of your time, or you
might come by car, which would consume less than four hours.
You could bicycle your way down, which many do, taking a
couple of days; or you might choose to travel by boat; this
would get you through here in a leisurely fashion in three
or four days. And then you could always choose to walk—yes,
walk! That would take you well over a week! Now, having made
this comparison, might I possibly offer up the suggestion
that what one sees and experiences, especially the flavor of
this whole “paradise playground thing,” that while passing
this way—the difference between a few hours and over a
week—that in that additional time there may be just the
least bit of difference in the return, the reward for having
spent it? Indeed friends, it is true. You cannot possibly
experience the pleasure of meeting all the great folks down
here nor gain even the least bit of understanding for what
this place is all about. Ahh, for there is such a vibrant,
joyful and carefree magic that weaves its spell throughout
this far away tropical island paradise. No folks! You could
not experience even the least of it by flying or driving or
biking or even by boating through. You’ve got to walk this
remarkable place to really get to know it, to know the
people and the magic of this special little corner of the
world known as the Florida Keys.
I’m up and out at first light, for I want
to get across the Seven Mile Bridge before the crushing
traffic of the day begins. I reach the high-most point on
the bridge’s center span a little after 7:30 a.m. Up till
now it’s been going pretty good…but then it happens, one of
the most incredible phenomenon that I have ever experienced
in all of my sixty years on this earth. At one time or
another I’ve dealt with just about everything Mother Nature
could possibly dish out…a grand chunk of which has occurred
this past eleven months. I’ve endured all types of
conditions…such as the weather; from scorching heat, to
floodwater, to driving rain, to sleet, hail, snow and even a
couple of tornadoes. But up until now, and though what’s
just come to pass is the result of man’s design, I’ve never
had anything like this happen to me, ever before! Those of
you who’ve lived through an earthquake will surely
understand the horrifying fright and the uncontrollable
shudder that comes from having the earth literally jump up
and down. The ground beneath our feet, and especially huge
things made out of concrete are just not supposed to move
around, let alone jump up and down!
So here I stand, the first really big
truck of the day having just passed, a fully loaded Oakley
tanker. As it approached I could hear its rumbling and feel
the vibration as it made the climb, and just before it
reached me I could feel the concrete literally sink beneath
my feet! As the truck passed, the roadway rose abruptly in
the most alarming fashion, a sensation most like standing on
a trampoline. Well, I’ll tell you folks, this scares the
holy-h right out of me! I grab the railing and hang on for
dear life! It seems as though I’m halfway to the moon up
here already, fearful and scared to death by the height, I’m
all by myself on this incredible mass of concrete…and it’s
flipping me up and down in the most frightful way! The
undulating wave created by the rolling hulk moving south
ahead of me seems to take forever to finally settle down.
Oh my, what a nightmarish sensation, what
an ordeal! For a brief moment I was sure I was a goner—the
whole bridge doomed to collapse, thence to plunge into the
Straights of Florida, taking me right along with it in the
process. Whew! I suppose you won’t be surprised if I tell
you that I recall very little about the remainder of this
day.
True happiness is seldom found among
the polished stone,
For on the path where most have trod, scant faith has ever
grown.
But should we journey o’er the way
where less the path is worn,
‘Tis there the most pure radiant light brings forth that
glorious morn.
Whereon we rise to greet the day to find our prayers
fulfilled.
Pure joy and peace fill full our cup just like our Father
willed.
But oh the faith to pass this way, the path few e’er have
known;
For ‘till we see God’s face have we—gone long and far alone.
[N. Nomad]
Monday—December 7, 1998
Trail Day—296/9
Trail Mile—4387/161
Location—Home of Phil and Ruth Weston, Sugarloaf Key,
MM17
There are lots of bridges down here in
the keys, and that makes for lots of bridge abutments. I
could have found a place along the beach to pitch last
night, but pulling off and ducking in under Torch Channel
Bridge was just a lot easier. There was the steady hum and
gentle vibration from the traffic right overhead to deal
with, but after walking all day in the sun and wind it
wasn’t long till the next thing I knew it was today.
As I’m out and on my way this morning,
hiking into another absolutely perfect day in the Keys, I am
filled with such a grand and glorious feeling. For even
though tomorrow most likely holds, and will no doubt bring
another very emotional time my way, much as on Katahdin and
the last day in Canada, tomorrow being the last day of this
incredible odyssey; my mind is filled now with such happy
thoughts. Thoughts that flood over me in the most blissful
and satisfying way, settling me into a mood of total and
absolute, perfect contentment, most near nirvana. I am
thinking of so many remarkable things that have happened on
this journey, things that simply lie beyond the realm of
coincidence, there being no possible way the wildest of odds
could have figured or played into many of the circumstances.
And just for example, and to make my
point. How many millions and millions of people live along
the sprawling expanse of this eastern North American
Continent? Ahh, but did yesterday Ed Williams’ path cross my
path again! If you recall, Ed and Mary Ann were the trail
angels that came to Punch Bowl Shelter clear back on the AT
in Virginia to bring their magic to Joliet Joe and me. Well
yesterday this van pulled off the road into a little
wayside. I recognized it right away—and right away did I see
and recognize Ed’s smiling face again! Oh, were both of us
ever beset with amazement! Ed said, “Nomad, is that you—you
still hiking?” Returning his beaming smile, I said, “Yes Ed,
yes, it’s me and I’m still hiking!” At that point Ed began
rummaging around his van, trying to find a little bit of
trail magic to hand out yet again. Judging from his anxious
manner, he most surely had never been caught in such a
predicament before, not having something to dispense to a
weary, hungry hiker. As he continued digging around, I
mentioned that it wasn’t necessary to hand me something
every time he saw me…this being the third time! But Ed would
hear none of that and in a while he finally came up with a
bottle of Gatorade, a bag of pretzels and an apple! He then
beamed with pride as he handed me the goodies!
My hike today takes me across the Keys of
Middle Torch, Ramrod, Summerland and Cudjoe. It’s a very
short hike as I’m bound for Sugarloaf Key and the home of
Phil and Ruth Weston, friends of my good friend Frank. In a
conversation recently with the Westons, Frank had mentioned
that I was heading their way. That’s all it took for them to
insist I stop at their home before heading out on my final
day to Key West. So turning at Sugarloaf Lodge now I’m
headed for Bonefish Lane and the Weston place. And oh my, am
I soon greeted by such a beautiful home and by such
beautiful people! I am ushered immediately to my private
room, right beside the swimming pool and right next the bath
and shower…where I quickly head, having enjoyed only the
salt water baths of the turquoise sea since leaving
Homestead. After a grand supper prepared by Ruth and after
much welcome and enjoyable conversation with Phil and Ruth,
I retire to sleep and dream contentedly about the morrow.
“There is a destiny that makes us
brothers;
None goes his way alone:
All that we send into the lives of others
Comes back into our own.”
[Edwin Markham]
Tuesday—December 8, 1998
Trail Day—297/10
Trail Mile—4404/178
Location—Monument, Southernmost Point, Eastern North
American Continent, Key West, MM00
I had promised Mark Baker, Producer at
WPBT Channel 2 in West Palm Beach, that I would call him
before reaching Key West, so upon arriving at the Weston
home yesterday afternoon I got in touch with Mark at the TV
studio in Miami. He commented with much excitement that he
and Allan would both be seeing me again and that they would
be there at the southernmost monument to greet me at the
completion of this odyssey. Phil and Ruth both plan to be
there too, and I have been invited to return with them again
this evening and rest and recuperate for awhile here at
their beautiful home on Sugarloaf Key before catching a bus
back north. After a whopping breakfast and a cheerful
sendoff by the Westons, I’m out and on my way to the end of
this little corner of the world, the Gulf of Mexico and the
Caribbean Sea at Key West.
It’s another turquoise, blue-perfect day
in the Florida Keys—as if there could be any other kind of
day in paradise—and I’m out and on my way with a glad,
joyfilled heart and a light, brisk step. It seems the
journey takes no time at all as I hike along today, for I
have become totally immersed in the thoughts and memories
from the past eleven months as they flood over me in a
tumultuous and triumphant cascade. The Keys of Sugarloaf,
Saddlebunch, Shark, Big Coppit, Boca Chica and Stock Island
are already little more than a blur in my memory as I turn
onto N. Roosevelt Blvd. in Key West. I am at mile marker
four now, a little over an hour from the end of it. I soon
turn onto Whitehead Street as I head toward that very last
street—Oh, but is there such a street so named in every
borough and every little berg in this grand and glorious
land—but here is the name so appropriate, a street
called—South Street.
I have oft heard and have also often read
the short little phrase, “The journey is the destination.”
But until now did I understand the meaning of those words.
They are so true, for as I near and as I see the end of
this, do I now realize that the ending is nothing more than
that—the end. But what has come to pass during these past
297 days, over these last 4400 miles has brought the joy and
true wonder of it. I have been blessed in ways that could
not have been imagined, ways that certainly until now, could
have been but little understood; blessings both in the
knowledge now of the undeniable and unshakable truth that is
this grand existence—that comes to fruit only from the
universal love of man—my faith in that glorious brotherhood
firmly and forevermore restored, and the indescribable
grandeur and majesty of Mother Nature’s God-given treasures.
Ahh, Her boundless treasures—the magnificent mountains;
mountains of all the ages, the spectacular Appalachians, and
the rich and fertile lands that sprawl the eastern grand
expanse of this continent, the mystifying and majestic
horizons of Canada and these Heaven-blessed United States of
America.
It is humbling indeed, to have been
brought into the light and unto the grace of Almighty God,
for we did travel together as constant companions o’er this
entire journey, and though I have indeed suffered and tried
the earthbound miseries and lonely times of which I’ve
written, so it is that in his presence and through his grace
have I endured, for his presence here within me was steady
each and every day, constant, never once withheld. We have
journeyed together and I have experienced the unshakable
reassurance and steadfast love of God, and I have been and
am now the benefactor of such peace and joy in my life that
only comes from within—a gift that is the light of His
light, that radiates from His eternal presence deep within
my soul.
I falter as I approach the end at the
Gulf of Mexico, but my dear new friends of most recent days
are here to reassure me and to cheer me home—and to share in
my triumph and joy; Phil and Ruth, and Mark and Allan, and a
delightful young couple bicycling from Daytona Beach, Milton
and Grace Gonzales. Thank you Lord! We’ve done it, we’ve
done it. And thank you dear family and friends, thank you
all; the wonderful legion who have befriended me, uplifted
me and brought your prayers and encouragement unto me
throughout this most remarkable and memorable journey—the
“Odyssey of ’98.”
“Even his grief's are a joy long after
to one who
remembers all that he wrought and endured.”
[Homer, The Odyssey] |