Wednesday--June 22, 2005
Trail Day--1
Trail Mile--10.0/10.0
Location--Kootenai Lake, Glacier National Park, Montana
A twelve hour bus ride to
Fargo, a fourteen hour train ride to East Glacier Park, then today,
a four hour shuttle ride to Waterton Townsite, Canada, and I'm on my
way south on the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail a little
before four.
Waterton Lake is a special
place, framed around by mountains. I get a few pictures, but hurry
along to the border at Goat Haunt. The ranger/customs station
closes at five-thirty, but even though I don't arrive until seven,
ranger Zach Dylong kindly checks me through. I reach my designated
campsite a little after eight. It rains all night.
Thursday--June 23, 2005
Trail Day--2
Trail Mile--13.7/24.0
Location--Elizabeth Lake Campsite, GNP
The hike today takes me over Stony Indian Pass, a climb of nearly
half a mile--then back down. The day is perfectly clear, just a
light breeze.
Take pictures of some amazing scenery. The snowmelt is swelling the
streams and waterfalls. A great day; I'm beat.
Friday--June 24, 2005
Trail Day--3
Trail Mile--19.6/44.0
Location--Many Glacier Village/Campground, GNP
Another perfect day, another
climb, close to a half mile up, over and down Red Gap Pass. More
amazing mountains. Saw six mountain goats on the cliffs above Red
Gap. Late evening getting into Many Glacier. This trail is kicking
my butt.
Saturday--June 25, 2005
Trail Day--4
Trail Mile--15.3/59
Location--Reynolds Creek Campground, GNP
A long day yesterday. It was late when I arrived at Many Glacier
Village. Got on the phone, took a shower, then went for supper at
the Swiftcurrent Restaurant. All my CDT friends have told me about
the great pizza, but I went for the spaghetti. Got a good night's
rest. Feel a lot better this morning.
The climb today, from five thousand feet here at Many Glacier, will
take me up and over Piegan Pass, at over seventy five hundred feet.
The day starts and stays iffy, rain off and on up and over. When
the sun breaks through to shine on the snow-covered peaks, it's a
sight to behold. Lots more good pictures, I hope. Make good time
descending Piegan and arrive at the campground (two primitive sites)
at four. Time to soak my tired, sore feet in Reynolds Creek. More
rain this evening.
Sunday--June 26, 2005
Trail Day--5
Trail Mile--24.2/83
Location--Atlantic Creek Campground, GNP
One long, tough day ahead, up and over Triple Divide Pass at eight
thousand feet. Vertical ascent and descent of half a mile both
ways--and this a 24 mile day.
It has rained all night and it's still drizzling this morning. The
day will be cold and dark. I'm out and moving by seven.
High wind and pepper-sized sleet at the Pass. No views today. I
stumble off the mountain to Atlantic Creek. It's very cold--and
still raining. Set up my tent and roll in. Don't eat supper or
hang my food bag until after dark.
Two fellows I passed on the climb saw a huge Grizzly just after I
passed them. Guess the old fellow was hiding from me. Sure was an
exciting story to listen to in camp.
Monday--June 27, 2005
Trail Day--6
Trail Mile--16.2/99
Location--Two Medicine Campground, GNP
Another climb today, from five thousand feet here at Atlantic Creek,
to over seventy five hundred at Pitamakin Pass. The rain returns as
I ascend into the clouds--and the snow-covered trail, two to three
feet in places for nearly a mile. Cold and eerie up here; plenty of
wind to go around too. The climb isn't as difficult as on previous
days. My legs are much stronger now and I'm getting used to the
thin air.
Make good time dropping down through the glacial hanging valley,
past the waterfalls roaring with snowmelt. Nothing to see here in
the clouds, just the sound of the falls.
The rain is coming in again as I reach Two Medicine. All my gear is
wet so I decide to take the shuttle down to East Glacier Park and
get a bunk at the hostel. Good decision; it pours all evening and
into the night.
I'm in the sack by nine, snug, warm and dry.
Tuesday--June 28, 2005
Trail Day--7
Trail Mile--10.5/110
Location--East Glacier Park, MT
The day dawns clear. A blessing. But I know the trail will be pure
mud before and after the rocks. Take the shuttle back to Two
Medicine at eight and I'm on the trail, up, up, up again, by nine.
Climbing is getting easier with each passing day. Today it's sunny
again, the scenery absolutely breathtaking. At Scenic Point, I'm
headed out of the sharptops that are Glacier; behind me are the
snow-shrouded peaks, to the east, the Great Plains to the far
horizon. And south? South looms the massive complex of snow tops
known as "The Bob," Bob Marshall Wilderness, where I'll be spending
the next week or two.
After four miles of ankle-deep mud, churned up by the rain--and the
horses, I'm back in East Glacier Park.
Saw no bears, but had the joy of observing mountain goats in the
rocky cliffs above Stony Indian Pass. Also saw deer, moose,
marmots, a marten and lots of birds.
Stopped at the magnificent Glacier Park Lodge for a cold frosty.
Ahh, don't get no better'n this!
Wednesday--June 29, 2005
Trail Day--8
Trail Mile--21.9/132
Location--TR101/TR136 Bob Marshall Wilderness
Sure glad to be back in East Glacier again last night; more rain,
hard at times. I was in one of the little cabins at Backpacker Inn,
owned and managed by Pat and Renee Schur of Serrano's Mexican
Restaurant. They have been very kind to this old man, letting me
leave my bounce box there. The Inn is neat and clean and the food
is very good. Thanks, dear friends, I hate to leave East Glacier
Park.
Decided to do a roadwalk for the first ten miles today. Nomad (no
relation!), who went through south of the Lodge said the mud was
just as bad or worse than coming in from the north. Had enough mud
yesterday to last me this entire odyssey--so it's a roadwalk to get
out of here.
Near Marias Pass, there's a trailhead that leads hikers into the Bob
Marshall Wilderness. I turn from the roadwalk there--to find more
mud churned up by horses, but I'm soon out of the worst of it.
Use my GPS for the first time this afternoon. It's slick. Will
tell me where I'm at within a few feet. So, if I come to an
intersection in the trail and am not sure where I'm at, out comes
the GPS. Took a little of the old-dog-new-trick thing, but I think
I've got it.
A great day for hiking. Make camp around six, get a warm, cooking
fire going with some liter wood. Have a good warm meal and roll in.
Thursday--June 30, 2005
Trail Day--9
Trail Mile--19.2/151
Location--Beaver Lake
Another fine day for hiking, cool and clear. The treadway is
another thing entirely though. Mud, mud, and more mud, churned to
ankle-deep mush by horse traffic. Horses can mess up an otherwise
fine trail, big time, and the trail (through the green tunnel) is
one fine mess.
This is the first day I've hiked without seeing anyone, no hikers,
no fishermen, no horseyback riders. Got the "Bob" all to myself.
Lots of little trickles all along to fetch water. Meltoff from the
snowpack, especially if there's a trickle right below the snowfield,
is the greenest-blue, ice-cold drink ever. I should treat this
water? Ha! Haven't had to treat any of my water yet.
Friday--July 1, 2005
Trail Day--10
Trail Mile--21.8/173
Location--Round Park at Open Creek
Mouse chewed both tiedowns off my tent last night. Didn't hear a
thing. When I sat up this morning the whole thing collapsed on me.
I'll be able to fix it. A little line, which I have, and it's good
as new.
Another beautiful clear, cool day. Met a trail work crew this
morning. They said the weather should hold through tomorrow, so I
decide to take a little longer route, about 11 miles further, so
I'll get to see both the North Wall and the Chinese Wall. Was that
ever the right decision! Saw four goats on the cliffs that form the
North Wall today. Staggering heights. The little kid kept running
ahead of momma. Nanny couldn't catch him. Also saw two mule deer
and numerous white tail. The North Wall is one spectacular place.
Glad I took the long way around--well worth it. Should have good
weather again tomorrow for good views of the Chinese Wall.
I think I'll have enough food to get to Rogers Pass and the hitch to
Lincoln. The hike is going just great.
Saturday--July 2, 2005
Trail Day--11
Trail Mile--21.8/195
Location--Below Spotted Bear Pass
A hard, stiff climb above seven thousand feet today, to get up and
into the Chinese Wall. But what a gorgeous day for viewing this
very special place. I have it all to myself. Picture taking time
for sure. No goats here but lots of deer, marmot and a variety of
colorful birds. Jonathan's maps and my GPS are really helping me
along. I can pinpoint where I'm at most anytime I like. I'm in the
wilderness, yes, but the trails here in the Bob Marshall Wilderness
are well marked and maintained. Find a just fine place for the
nite, right by a rushing whitewater brook, brink-full with meltoff.
Oh, the weather can be very fickle. Hiked through some light sleet
coming out of the Wall.
I'm out of the Bob Marshall and into the Scapegoat Wilderness now.
Sunday--July 3, 2005
Trail Day--12
Trail Mile--28.8/224
Location--Benchmark Campground +
Don't know how long the rain lasted last night; I went right to
sleep.
The hike today is pretty flat compared to recent days and I make
good time. Pack trains of horses and many hikers heading up to the
Chinese Wall. Sure glad I went through there yesterday.
Actually, since leaving Glacier National Park, where one must stay
at assigned campsites, I've been hiking longer days. My tentative
itinerary was set up very conservatively, and I expect to move south
faster than is shown on that schedule. So, I'm in Benchmark today
instead of the 4th, because I've been steadily chipping away at the
mileage for the upcoming day, and today being a short day into
Benchmark I picked up a day. Actually, I've picked up two days, as
I've got enough food to hike on to Rogers Pass, skipping the day in
and back to Augusta. I believe this will be the longest stretch
I've ever hiked without resupply, seven days and over 170 miles.
Supper's cooked, chores done, time to roll in.
Monday--July 4, 2005
Trail--Day 13
Trail Mile--22.8/247
Location--Pear Creek
Another fine day on the Divide. Met a young trail maintainer,
Chris. His folks live in Newfoundland. Got on the wrong trail
today for about two hours, for hikers only, straight up and straight
down. But the horses have been here, somehow. It's absolutely
amazing where horses can go. They're like mountain goats up here.
Hiked hard, a long day. Happy Birthday, America!
Tuesday--July 5
Trail Day--14
Trail Mile--29.9/277
Location--Rogers Pass/Lincoln
Today I need to get off the mountain and into town, to Lincoln, for
resupply. After lunch today I've got one English muffin and two
spoons of peanut butter left, that's it.
The day goes fine until I head up the mountain from Lewis and Clark
Pass. My maps are working. My GPS is working. My compass is
working. But my dizzy skull isn't with it today.
The trail, what there is of it is overgrown, with poor or ripped up
signage. I get off the Divide and onto the wrong ridge. I knew I
wasn't going the right way, heading west when I should have been
going southeast, but I kept going just the same. By four, I was
clear off Jonathan's map, nowhere near Rogers Pass, so I baled.
Down the mountain I tumbled, along abandoned logging roads, finally
to reach the gravel road leading to the Ranger cabin below L&C
Pass. Figured I'd hitch to Lincoln. No vehicles out here though.
No luck. It was dark by the time I reached the highway to Lincoln.
No shoulder; dangerous, but I hiked on until I came by a well-lit
place, Nabors Drilling, Ltd. I headed over. The door was open and
I was invited in by Shawn, one of the drillers. "Take off your pack
and have a seat," he said. After exchanging the usual, he asked,
"Are you hungry." Well, the old Yogi in me kicked right in, don't
you know! In a moment we were in the kitchen and Shawn had a
platter of hot chicken and a huge bowl of pasta sitting in front of
me. He let me pitch in the grass behind.
Ahh, so the day worked out okay.
No perfect hike anymore. The section of the CDT between Lewis and
Clark Pass and Rogers Pass will forever remain unfinished--wherever
it is.
This trail has many acceptable alternate routes though; I'll use the
roadwalk into Lincoln as mine.
Wednesday--July 6, 2005
Trail Day--15
Trail Mile--26.1/303
Location--Near Granite Butte Lookout Tower
What a great time during the Lincoln diversion.
This morning, Shawn arranged a ride the remaining seven miles into
town with two of his roughnecks, Jason and Ritchie--but not before I
was offered a full breakfast platter by the camp cook. Sausage,
potatoes and scrambled eggs with cheese and a muffin. Oh, and
brimming cups of hot coffee.
Also had a great talk with Fraser, who's folks live in
Newfoundland. He's training for an ultra long-distance crosscountry
race.
In town, the school is open. They're getting ready for fall. Was
hoping the boy's locker room might be available so I could shower
and get some grit rinsed out of my clothes. Met two happy folks,
Kathy, the superintendent, and Carla the principal. They said
yes--and provided me a towel!
What a stroke of luck--that I decided to put my hiking garb on
(shorts and gaiters) rather than my town pants, because at the
Welcome Gas Station a lady approached me to enquired if I were a
long distance hiker--seeing me in hiking garb, pack, sticks and
all. After some reluctant (and expected) hesitation, Joni loaded me
up, then drove me the seventeen miles back to the Pass. What luck!
Got in twelve miles before sundown.
Thursday--July 7, 2005
Trail Day--16
Trail Mile--25.9/329
Location--Mullen Pass
Lots of tough climbs and descents today. Another butt-kickin' for
the old Nomad. There are still patches of snow along the
trail at higher elevations. I love snow cones. This
sleet-consistency snow is just like that used to make snow cones. I
break the crust away, make a snowball and then munch it until my
hands get too cold to bobble it any longer.
Saw the biggest, midnight black (huge) moose. The encounter startled
him more than it did me.
Got lost as usual in the high meadows. You'd think it'd be easy
enough to tell which ridge was the Divide, but it's not. Sure am
wising up, though.
Another glorious day in the high country!
Friday--July 8, 2005
Trail Day--17
Trail Mile--7.5/337
Location--McDonald Pass/Ellison
Lots of old mines and diggings along today. The ravines out here
are called gulches. First there's Faith Gulch, then Hope and
finally--Charity. Interesting FS road numbers, like 1856, 1859.
Missed a turn--again. Cost me a mile out and a mile back.
Had a problem getting a hitch to Ellison. US8 is straight-ahead
four-lane, traffic flying. Everybody ripping along at eighty, no
way to stop if they wanted. After walking most of the five miles to
town, a fellow finally locks it up and skids to the shoulder.
Not much in Ellison, Last Chance Saloon and Motel. That's about
it. Kind folks at the bar. Jack buys me two burgers and fries.
The little four-room motel is booked up, so I decide to head back to
the Pass. Ed, one of the bar customers, drives me up.
Good folks in Ellison.
Another fine day along the Great Divide.
Saturday--July 9, 2005
Trail Day--18
Trail Mile--24.2/361
Location--Near Blackfoot Meadow
Slept well in the campground below the communication towers at
McDonald Pass.
Kind of an iffy day again, wind and clouds, but oh what a welcome
change from the heat of yesterday. Got blisters on my hands from
the sun.
Just a nice steady hike today, a few ups, a few rocks, a few downs.
Got lost a couple of times as usual, mainly in the meadows where the
cow paths mingle with the CDT treadway, which is usually much less
worn than the cow paths.
More mining prospects and large pits. Also the remnants of old log
buildings that made the mining camps.
Rained on me off and on, but the evening turned out fine. Got a
nice cooking and heating fire going to fix my supper and relax
awhile before rolling in.
Sunday--July 10, 2005
Trail Day--19
Trail Mile--21.8/383
Location--Near Four Corners
Another fairly flat day as go the ups and downs, but plenty of
rocks. The CDT spends more time off the Divide than on today, so
have no problem finding water. When the trail keeps with the
Divide, there's no water for miles, not the case today.
Saw a heard of fifteen mule deer. They seemed more curious than
frightened, but caution finally overruled and they all fled to the
timber.
Saw two folks on mountain bikes. That was it all day.
Intermittent rain in the afternoon and evening. Beautiful sunset.
Having a fuss of a time with my right knee. Persistent but
tolerable pain. Have doubled up on the Osteo Bi-Flex and coated
aspirin. Been through this before. A few more miles and it'll all
smooth out.
Monday--July 11, 2005
Trail Day--20
Trail Mile--22.2/405
Location--Anaconda, Montana
Decision made way back was to take the Anaconda cutoff, thus lopping
off a big loop in the Divide around Butte.
The time off in town is so very much welcome. This is the first
motel I've stayed at since beginning this odyssey. A welcome break,
indeed. A short roadwalk into town and the hike today is completed
by noon.
Met Eric and Doug at the post office. They've hiked from Old
Faithful north. When they finish in Canada, plans are to flip back
to Old Faithful, then head south to finish their hike at the Mexican
border. Timing is such that we may meet up again. Hope so--nice
fellows.
Get a room downtown at the Marcus Daily. Post office isn't 100 yds.
away. Ditto for the library--but alas, it's closed due to budget
constraints. Looks like the city fathers didn't get their
way--"Okay folks, you'll just have to do without your library for
awhile!"
Hit the jackpot with mail. Lots of cards, my bounce box, and other
well wishes from friends.
A good day to rest. Be back on the top of the ridge again tomorrow.
Tuesday--July 12, 2005
Trail Day--21
Trail Mile--22.7/428
Location--Storm Lake
Great stay in Anaconda, first motel this trip. Thanks to all for
your cards and letters, your thoughtfulness.
Lots more pictures to send to Justin, my Webmaster. They include
some great shots of the Bob Marshall and Scapegoat Wilderness
areas--also the Lewis and Clark, Helena, and Deerlodge National
Forests. I'm starting to get the hang of digital photography. It's
sure a lot easier getting the pictures off for loading on my
Website, just pull the memory card and mail it, then pop in the one
Justin has returned.
I've a roadwalk all the way up to Storm Lake, where I'll enter the
Anaconda/Pintler Wilderness tomorrow after a final climb to the
Divide.
There's a great spring at Spring Mountain, just when I'm running low
on water. Lots of folks stop to fill their water jugs.
My right knee is very troublesome; the pain is steady. Seeing the
little cinnamon/brown bear along the final pop to Storm Lake takes
my mind off the knee.
Storm Lake is a natural lake, enhanced and enlarged by a dam. It is
a very lovely place.
It's late evening when I pitch, to build a skeeter foggin' fire. I
warm the rest of my four-dollar chicken dinner from the Safeway
Deli, then I'm gone for the day.
Wednesday--July 13, 2005
Trail Day--22
Trail Mile--19/447
Location--Warren Lake
Storm Lake lived up to its name this morning. A thunderstorm came
through just before dawn to wake me. I pulled the fly down on my
tent and turned right back over for another hour of sleep. When I
awoke again, the sun was up--the storm gone.
Lots of climbing today, steep stuff as the trail goes from pass to
glacial valley and back to pass again--elevation changes in excess
of a quarter mile each time.
My right knee continues very much a problem, slowing my pace
considerably. The downhills are excruciating. Popping the coated
aspirin helps. 2400mg gives some relief. No way I'll be in Wisdom
Friday at this pace.
I do manage to make it to Warren Lake. Sure hope I can do better
tomorrow.
Thursday--July 14, 2005
Trail Day--23
Trail Mile--24.4/471
Location--Near Buck Ridge Meadows
Another painful and frustrating day with the right knee. No less
than 5600 feet vertical change with some of the gnarliest tread I've
encountered in a long time. Up or down today; that's about it.
Glorious unspoiled scenery--and a continual fog of skeeters, right
through the heat of the afternoon. The Pintler is all mine today,
no one else out here.
No way of making it to Chief Joseph Pass tomorrow, it's just too
far, even with good knees. I set too rigorous a schedule through
here. Perhaps I can get in around noon Saturday.
Saw sixteen elk in a single herd, and lots of little fellows, like
marmots and squirrel.
Another beautiful day, in spite of the constant swarm of skeeters.
A lot of soggy wood on the fire tonight--smoke 'em away.
Friday--July 15, 2005
Trail Day--24
Trail Mile--20/491
Location--Below Chief Joseph Pass
I've been continually blessed with perfect weather, and today the
good fortune continues. Continues also, the sore, painful right
knee. Stopping for only a moment, to take a drink or to snap a
picture, and it's back to a pathetic hobble again for another fifty
yards. Perhaps there is some improvement though, as I've been able
to reduce my intake of coated aspirin. Wow, have my ears ever been
ringing--overdosed for sure.
The entire mountainside all around has burned, part of the '98 fire
that devastated so much of the Rockies. Hot, dry, powder dirt--and
rocks, lots of rocks. Should I want to look around, I've got to
stop, or risk stumbling and doing a header straight down.
A rumbling in the distance this afternoon, like a truck engine, a
low-pitched grind. But there are no roads out here within thirty
miles. What gives? Then I see their heads moving just over the
crest of the ridge. Elk, lots and lots of elk--and they're moving
fast, single file. I count at least forty, some with huge racks.
In a minute they’re gone. Nothing left but a cloud of dust.
Some of the treadway the CDT follows through these Wilderness and
National Forest areas is well maintained, the blowdowns cleared,
signage good at intersections--but some not. Not is the scheme
today, a scramble over, under, around and through blowdowns. I'm
covered with soot and dirt. At almost every junction I must stop
and take a GPS bearing for fear of wandering off in the wrong
direction. Still manage to get lost much too often, but manage to
find my way back.
A lot of the tread today is above 8,000 feet. Snow cone time--at
least the slushy part. There's just nothing feels better to a hot
parched throat than snowfield slush, nothing!
Carried an extra day's food just in case. Smart move. Another
smoker fire for sure tonight, to keep the skeeter swarm circling at
a distance.
Saturday--July 16, 2005
Trail Day--25
Trail Mile--5.5/497
Location--Wisdom, MT
Got off trail again late yesterday. Went down Elk Creek drainage
instead of Hogan Creek. Everything clicked on the map, so I hadn't
taken a GPS bearing for quite awhile. This morning I do. What is
this? I'm nowhere near where I should be. Too far south and east
of Chief Joseph Pass. How do I keep doing these stupid off-trails
anyway! Same thing happened the day I was to hitch to Lincoln.
What a screw up that day turned out to be.
Okay, mister great explorer, now what! Oh, and you're out of food,
guy.
Checking the map--there's Chief Joseph Pass. There's Wisdom--and
according to my GPS, there's me, right in between. Turns out, the
road leading down from Elk Creek intersects the main road to
Wisdom. Time for another one of Nimblewill's alternate
routes, seems. Longer, of course (aren't they always!) Oh yeah, I
head for the Wisdom highway.
A half hour wait with thumb extended and I've got a ride with a
former BLM fellow. Even make it to the PO before it closes to get a
surprise package from dear friend, Jingle.
I hobble around town, have lunch, then check into the little local
motel.
Not a bad day after all. A time to rest and a total cleanup will
sure feel good before heading back up the mountain tomorrow.
Sunday--July 17, 2005
Trail Day--26
Trail Mile--17.5/515
Location--Pioneer Creek below Big Hole Pass
Great time in Wisdom. Met all good people--at both cafes, and
especially Tina, owner and manager of the little Sandman Motel.
Tina let me make credit card calls on her personal phone. Then this
morning, she drives me the near 30 miles back up to Chief Joseph
Pass and I managed to get hiking by ten.
Today, on the Divide, I step back and forth between Montana and
Idaho. Run into a scout group from Minot, North Dakota out for
sixty miles of the Bitterroots.
As usual, I manage to get lost, just past the turn to one of the few
springs. The trail just disappears in a meadow. I search for over
half an hour, up and down, back and forth--no luck. Finally
bushwhack two miles to the next pass where I know the trail will be.
It's been only a 17-mile day, but it's nearly dark before I arrived
at Big Hole Pass, and Pioneer Creek below. Lots of elk and
whitetail today.
Monday--July 18, 2005
Trail Day--27
Trail Mile--20.3/535
Location--Slag-A-Melt Lakes
More beautiful weather. Have I been blessed with the weather!
While everyone in the rest of the country is enduring the sweltering
heat, I'm up here in the cool, clear air. Slept in, again. Don't
get out till 8:30, not good.
Knee pain is steady, no better, no worse, but it's really wearing on
me. Having difficulty maintaining a meager average of
mile-and-a-half per hour, but I manage to keep plodding along.
Hiking like this is not fun. I know, though, that the knee will get
better with time, and I find comfort in that thought.
Experience one of the toughest pulls (climbs) ever today. It just
keeps coming; up, up, up. Had to dig my sticks in just to maintain
footing. Total ascent of 1500 feet.
I'm in the Beaverhead National Forest, the Bitterroot Mountains.
Rugged, rugged place. Sure hope these ups and downs taper off a
little soon.
Pass lots of old prospect sites today, ruins of old cabins and
building sinking into the earth.
Slag-A-Melt Lakes are high-held, glacial lakes, with the rugged
saw-toothed mountain ridges their reflected backdrop.
I brave a swim in the cold water, then let the warm afternoon sun
dry and warm me.
Tuesday--July 19, 2005
Trail Day--28
Trail Mile--19/554
Location--Berry Meadow
Out to a good start at eight, another big blue Montana sky.
Today it's another bumpy ride, lots of climbing, from one glacial
hanging valley with its high-held lake, back up to another pass--and
on and on it goes for the day.
See three other folks today. Stanley had just parked his quad-trac
and was heading for Black Island Lake with his casting rod. Also
talked to Dallas and his son from Butte. He's a minister. Said a
prayer for me (for my leg, actually).
Managed to stay on trail the whole day. Nice new treadway to begin
with, then old unmaintained, overgrown tread with blowdowns every 50
yds. Some of the ascents and descents are extreme. Took two
tumbles but none the worse for wear. Sure could have done without
the thousand-foot climb right near the end of the day. Knee still
the same. If I stop for more than a moment I have one tough time
getting going again.
Very tired. Pitch camp. Get a cooking and fogging fire going. I
declare, I don't believe I've ever been so bothered by the pesky
skeeters. They punch right through my clothing, even my hat.
Wednesday--July 20, 2005
Trail Day--29
Trail Mile--19/571
Location--Cowbone Lake
Great day for hiking the CDT, another blue Montana sky. Got a
roadwalk all the way to Cowbone Lake. Well, actually most of the
road is for quad-tracs or other high clearance vehicles, but what a
change from the last week of ups and downs. Have a short pull
toward the end of the day, but nothing like the recent climbs.
More elk today, and lots of whitetail. Forgot to mention the huge
old gray moose that crossed my trail yesterday.
Cowbone Lake is a lovely spot, get in early--by five. Take a swim
and wash some grungy clothes.
Northbound hikers, Kevin and Adrian come in around five-thirty.
Enjoyable evening, enjoyable day.
Thursday--July 21, 2005
Trail Day--30
Trail Mile--20.2/591
Location--Lemhi Pass
What a great evening last with Kevin and Adrian. Had a good cooking
and fogging fire going and we had some really fine conversation.
Oh, and Adrian doctored my knee with some natural salve she'd made
herself. Oh yes, a great evening.
Another beautiful Montana day to enjoy. First order is to bushwhack
up to the Divide from Cowbone Lake. There is no trail. Kevin and
Adrian came down from there yesterday evening, so I'm not so
apprehensive about the climb after talking to them about it.
I make it fine and am on my way again along the Continental Divide,
which, here, separates Montana and Idaho.
The exciting thing today, and the occasion of which I've been
anxiously awaiting is reaching Lemhi Pass/Sacagawea Memorial Spring,
for it was August 9th last that I crossed Lemhi Pass on my hike to
the Pacific, o'er the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. I
reach Lemhi Pass by seven-thirty.
No improvement in the knee today, even though the hike along the
Divide was an easy day for a change. I think it took nearly a month
for my left knee to come back in '98. Just have to be patient and
pray it heals okay.
Friday--July 22, 2005
Trail Day--31
Trail Mile--26.4/616
Location--Bannock Pass/Leadore
Sacagawea Memorial Spring is a very special place, so much meaning
and importance in the history of the American Northwest--and to me,
especially. The cold, refreshing water flowing from the spring is
just as I remember from the past. I enjoyed the picnic area, cooked
my supper on the grill there, then pitched back away from the
Memorial area.
Today dawns cool and clear and I manage to get up, break camp and
get moving by seven-thirty. It's a long haul from Lemhi Pass to
Bannock Pass, the signs say 28 miles, my maps, 25, either way, with
a little luck I'll make it in time to hitch a ride down the 15 miles
to the little village of Leadore, Idaho.
The Trail follows the Divide mostly today, more ups and downs to
contend with. The views to the east and west are to the horizon.
Legions of mountains, especially to the west. One can only wonder
as to the thoughts that occupied Captain Lewis when he saw them.
Had he previously doubted the existence of a Northwest Passage, he
for sure knew as he stood in Lemhi Pass, looking at the unbroken
wall of mountains to the west--there was no Northwest Passage.
I manage to make very good time in spite of my hobbling along; get
off trail only once for less than ten minutes, and manage to reach
Bannock Pass before seven--with thunder and lightning crashing and
flashing around me. As I wait here, I can see the gravel road
coming from the east that leads over the Pass for at least a
distance of five miles. There is no movement on the road, no
telltale dust to indicate a vehicle is coming. In forty minutes,
two trucks with trailers hauling loads of the slim and straight
lodgepole pine go by. No luck. Guess their boss told them, "no
riders." Finally, just before eight, Laura, from near Leadore, and
hauling a mare in the back of her pickup from Dillon, stops for me
and I'm on my way to Leadore.
A steak and baked potato at the Silver Dollar and a spot at the
little four-room Leadore Inn and I'm in by nine-thirty. It's been a
long, hard, but rewarding day.
Saturday--July 23, 2005
Trail Day--32
Trail Mile--16.4/632
Location--Water tank near Poison Creek
Friends who've hiked the CDT have told me about the great trail
town, Leadore. Jingle says it was her favorite. I can
certainly see why--friendly, kind, happy and generous folks all.
Aleta, owner and operator of Sandman Motel for over forty years took
me in--and took time to do some heavy-duty sewing for me on her
commercial machine. Debbie, at the Sagebrush Cafe really caters to
hikers; great grub (extra heapings for hikers), and free milkshake!
Marynell at the PO was very patient with me, helped me get some
things boxed to send home--very kind.
Becky at the Silver Dollar Bar and Cafe greeted me when I arrived
town, bright smile and a welcome, Hello! Super steak and baked
potato. She got me set up with Aleta at the motel.
At my beckon call, Aleta drops everything and drives me the gravel
road back up to Bannock Pass. Thanks, dear friends in Leadore. You
have made my stay in your little village most memorable.
I'm on the trail again by 2:30. I've a roadwalk along the Great
Divide. Wide open views to the eastern prairie, the wall of massifs
to the west. Saw a big pair of pronghorns right on the Divide. The
headwaters of Missouri actually begin somewhere along here.
I'm hiking with one foot in the Salmon NF in Idaho, and the other in
the Beaverhead NF in Montana. Manage to get to the first water tank
near Poison Creek. Good water. I find thirty-five to forty elk
loitering at my campsite. There's an entire rick of firewood cut
and stacked. Skeeters are vicious, as usual. My knee remains the
same. Hear the elk off and on all night.
Sunday--July 24, 2005
Trail Day--33
Trail Mile--19/651
Location--Meadow Creek
Clear, cool day. On the Divide all morning. Meet Porter from
Montana. He's section hiking north. Turns out to be a long day,
short miles. Got a pebble in my shoe late morning. Wish I could
remember who said this—I believe it was Robert Service. I'll
paraphrase: "It not the mountain your climbing that'll wear you
down--it's the pebble in your shoe." Early afternoon, finally had
to stop and dump the pebble!
What a demanding day. Climb, climb, skid, skid. Oh yes, another
old familiar phrase, this one perhaps anonymous: "Thank you, Lord,
for the level ground. Oh thank you, Lord, for the level ground.
Yes, thank you, Lord, for the level ground--'cause everything else
is up or down." Labored up and down to (and from) over nine
thousand feet.
On the open Divide the trail disappears in the meadows. I get lost
frequently, then find my way again. Camped at eight thousand feet.
Many more elk today.
Very tired. Knee persists a problem.
Good water at Meadow Creek. Perhaps this little trickle is the true
headwaters of the Missouri.
Monday--July 25, 2005
Trail Day--34
Trail Mile--22.7/674
Location--South of Deadman Lake
More blue Montana (and Idaho) skies. Still hiking the boundary
between Montana and Idaho. The trail will soon turn from generally
south-southwest to east, then northeast as the Divide changes
direction. The trail follows the Divide, so I'll go that way.
See many more elk today--and cows, lots of cows.
With the problem I've been having with my knee, I decide not to do
the horseshoe loop around Nicholia/Deadman Pass. Will stay with the
business of the general route. The side excursions will have to
wait.
The evening cooking-turned-warming fire feels good. Plumb tuckered,
as usual. Sleep is no problem.
Tuesday--July 26, 2005
Trail Day--35
Trail Mile--26.5/701
Location--Shineberger Creek
Been concerned and apprehensive about this day ever since reading
Jonathan's notes--about poor tread, lack of signage, confusing (or
no) trail, and all the cow paths that crisscross the CDT, making it
difficult to stay on track. But turns out, I did just fine. Oh
yes, I got lost some and had to consult my GPS a few times to figure
where I was, but the day went well and I was able to do the long
miles.
Had an angel riding my shoulder today for sure. Prayed for safe and
sure passage--and it was there for me.
Hey, the knee did much better today. For all your blessings--thank
you, Lord!
Wednesday--July 27, 2005
Trail Day--36
Trail Mile--20.2/721
Location--Monida/Lima, MT
The bushwhack back to the Divide from Shineberger Creek is a
straight pull--up. I'm on the crest by eight. Another bright,
clear day.
The Divide here is a true rollercoaster, the only flat spots, where
the ridge quickly changes from either down/up or to up/down. Some
of the pulls are stand-up dirt bitin' steep, the downs, skidding and
sliding knee busters. Praying helps--"Please, Lord, help me up this
one; please, Lord, don't let me crash down this one." By noon I've
reached the alternate route leading to I-15. It's downhill all the
way for nearly ten miles. I make Monida by five.
Monida's heydays were when folks rode the train up, then changed to
stagecoach for the ride across the Centennial Valley to
Yellowstone. All's left here now is old decaying store fronts
moldering into the ground, a mile of rusting junk cars, trucks and
buses--and a pay phone to call the hiker friendly folks, Mike and
Connie Strang, at Mountain View Motel in Lima. I get Connie on the
phone. She sends Mike right away to fetch me the fifteen miles to
Lima.
Grill your own steak at the Peat Bar and Grill. Post Office right
by. ATM at the Exxon. Another neat little trail town.
Pounding the gravel road didn't help either knee today. Ah, what a
blessing to be clean again, if only for a short while.
Thursday--July 28, 2005
Trail Day--37
Trail Mile--17.7/739
Location--Near Rock Spring
Had a grand time in Lima. The Strangs, Mike and Connie, really made
me feel welcome. "Used to bicycle around a lot," said Mike. "I know
what it's like to be lonely, dirty and tired. Been right where you
are now. A friendly hand, a little help along, it meant a lot to
me. Givin' some back now." You sure are, Mike.
The Strangs moved out here from Nebraska a while back, to be near
their daughter and son-in-law. Son-in-law just offered a job in
Connecticut. Yup, they're movin'. But Mike and Connie, they’re
staying in Lima. Big Sky is their home now.
At three, I'm finally ready to return to the trail. Mike has just
returned from a Lewis and Clark meeting (the Corps of Discovery,
passed through this area 200 years ago this September) and he drives
me the 20 miles back to the road south of Monida.
It's a gentle climb back toward the Divide, but I'm strugglin', with
a overloaded pack--and tummy. This is cow and sheep country, even
up on the Divide. Lots of cow patties to dodge as I hike along.
Ha, good friend of mine, trail name, Tric, has a different
take for the initials "CDT." He says they stand for "Cow Dung
Trail." Sure enough the treadway here!
Doesn't take long for the trail to start the old roller coaster
again as the ridge heads for the sky--then pitches off to the next
pass. The high ground is open ridge or meadow here, offering
terrific views--and tortuous rocks, round rocks, from the creek beds
of a million years ago. Gotta slow down; won't make Rock Spring
tonight, got too late a start. That's okay. Find a delightful spot
on the high ground to pitch and watch the sun drop behind the
legions to the west. Good fire for cookin', skeeter foggin' and
de-chillin'.
Friday--July 29, 2005
Trail Day--38
Trail Mile--18.8/758
Location--Near spring at head of West Fork Creek
The trail today stays high, near 8,000 feet, mostly on the Divide.
The tread here is little used, woefully lacking of signage or
blazing, and poorly maintained. I spend a good part of the day
thinking I'm off-trail and lost--only then to come upon an old,
solitary, healed-over axe blaze, indicating I'm on trail--or perhaps
no blazing, nothing for a fair distance, especially in the
waist-high grassy meadows--because I am, indeed, off-trail and
lost. Under these circumstances I do well to make one
mile-per-hour, oh so frustrating when I'm accustomed to averaging
nearly three. Sure makes for a long, short-mile day. Do believe
I've set myself too optimistic a schedule for this section,
especially hobbling along as I am.
When looking out at distances of fifty to sixty miles, there's bound
to be the least haze. I thought the day was perfectly clear until I
noticed a faint jagged outline lifting and dancing on the far
horizon. "What in the world is that?" I whisper to myself. After
taking a compass bearing and figuring the approximate distance, I
realize I'm looking at the Teton Range, the other side of
Yellowstone. Then, upon looking closer, I also realize that the
contoured, lesser pinnacled yet lofty range I see set before the
Tetons is the Yellowstone, where I'll be hiking some four days from
now.
I declare, if the skeeters haven't followed and pestered me nearly
the entire day, only to drop back and be relieved later by the horse
flies. I rub my arms and knees with crushed sage and the tender
shoots from deer tongue, which helps some.
A threat of rain, then a little sleet in the late afternoon, but the
evening clears nicely.
The mountains far and about are mine--no one else up here today.
When we're nearer the stars are we closer to heaven?
Saturday--July 30, 2005
Trail Day--39
Trail Mile--19.7/778
Location--Hell Roaring Creek Canyon Pass
Company today for sure. First I hear this God-awful racket, like
children hollering and carrying on, then I recognize the bleating of
sheep, many hundreds of sheep. They're all over the mountain--and
the trail before me. I managed to dodge around the cow plops, but
there's no dodging this stuff, whew! Looking closer at my map, I
see I'm in the official U.S. Sheep Experiment Station. Quite an
experiment! There was a faded old sign I saw back. It did alert me
to the sheep. The sign also read, "Danger, Guard Dogs." Don't see
any guard dogs, just lots of sheep. Hah, and yeah, one black
one--part of the experiment, I suppose.
Been hiking these past few days in the Targhee National Forest. I
imagine each forest jurisdiction has its own superintendent, with
his/her own priorities. Some care about the CDT, and it shows in
how the trail has been constructed and cared for on the lands they
steward. Others, I guess, care more about cattle and sheep. As far
as the Targhee goes--yes I know, momma said, "If you can't say
something nice, keep quiet." Well, okay, but anyway, as far as the
Targhee goes, I'm very happy to see the sign today that reads,
"Leaving Targhee National Forest."
I'm in the Eastern Centennials now. Very nice tread, well cared for
trail. A relief and a blessing.
I decided when preparing maps for this trek that I'd take the Macks
Inn cutoff. This route lops off a long, arching, horseshoe-like
segment of the CDT. It's not the "official" route. But it is the
choice of most thru-hikers--and it's the choice I made.
In order to get from the CDT and down into the little village of
Macks Inn, it's necessary to bushwhack the four-plus miles up Hell
Roaring Creek Canyon and over the Divide (the CDT is down on the
other side here). Rain sure came today, not a lot, but enough to
muddy up the canyon and soak everything. By the time I've climbed
to Hell Roaring Creek Canyon Pass, I'm as wet and dirty as I believe
I've ever been on any trail.
I set camp and manage to get a smoldering, smoky fire going right in
the saddle of the Pass. While supper's cookin', I rig a drying rack
for my clothing. Things quit dripping, but they ain't dry.
The evening chill comes on, but I'm warm and dry in my little Nomad
tent.
As I drift off, I'm thinkin', "Danged if I ain't gettin' the hang of
beating around these mountains."
Sunday--July 31, 2005
Trail Day--40
Trail Mile--14.1/792
Location--Macks Inn, Idaho
My maps and the notes by Jonathan indicate a faint trail leading
from just north of the Pass over to cut trail from a trailhead to
Sawtell Peak. I pick up the trace on an old, washed out woods
road. I'm on my way to Macks Inn, downhill all the way.
But no fun for the knees. Oh yes, after favoring my right knee for
the past 200+ miles, my left knee is now also complaining. The
right knee is definitely getting better; the left one will quit
griping soon too, I am confident, thank you, Lord.
The manicured trail leads to a wide gravel road with much traffic.
In just awhile I'm on US20--then Macks Inn where I manage a
reasonable-rate room at, where else, Macks Inn!
Oh what a pleasure to shower away the mud and launder the crud from
my clothes.
Oh, one more thing to talk about today. The subject: "Getting Old."
In this installment we'll dwell on the topic of forgetfulness, the
short-term kind. In my case, really, really short. Okay, episode
one: I'm now on my third pair of sunglasses. And the gone ones?
Laid them down one minute. Walked off and left them the next. The
last brand new pair, they lasted two hours. Forgot them the first
time I took 'em off--two hours! That was three days ago. Been
squinting into the high-mountain sun ever since. You'd think I'd
learn, wouldn't you!
This next little deal, episode two, is more to do with dumb than
with forgetful. You see, I've pulled this same trick before; it's
just that I don't remember. Anyway, two days ago, the morning was
very chilly. Donned both my short and long-sleeved shirts. Warmed
up quick after the first hard pull, so off came the long-sleeved.
Instead of taking time to open my pack, I lashed it "securely" under
my pack cinch. Yup, next stop a couple hours later, no long-sleeved
shirt--no more. It was my favorite; you know how you have favorite
things, maybe more sentimental. It had over 10,000 miles, either on
my back or in my pack. Dang, dang, dang!
Oh, but this last one--this episode takes the grand prize for
forgetful. You might guess there's no water on the Divide (it
divides the waters!). Yesterday, after a long stretch on top I
needed water, so I pitched off the mountain to a little trickle I
could see way down below. On the way back up, and shortcutting over
a couple of secondary ridges, I sat down to take a bearing. Yup,
you guessed it. Got up, put my pack on, grabbed my sticks and
walked right away from my GPS. Left it laying right there on a
rock. The blessed thing is bright yellow. The rock was black, the
grass, green--walked right off and left it. Jeez! Oh, but don't
you know what I'll never forget, what I'll always remember? It's
the sickening, lowdown-hollow feeling in my gut three hours later
when I reached back in my pack pocket for my GPS and it was gone.
I'll remember that!
This forgetfulness, it's getting old! I am old.
Monday--August 1, 2005
Trail Day--41
Trail Mile--12.5/805
Location--Latham Spring
I was fortunate to get a room in Macks Inn, and at a very reasonable
rate. It's tourist season here, campers and sightseers galore. Had
good grub at Henry's Fork Cafe, probably the best salad bar for this
whole journey. Stuffed myself on the AYCE buffet.
The hike back up to the CDT follows paved, gravel, then tank-trapped
old forest service roads.
Meet three bicyclists from Indiana on my way up and we have the most
pleasant conversation. They enjoyed a couple of my ditties--and we
talked about the Lord.
Ensuing thunderstorm, which quickly overtakes me, drives me off the
trail and into my tent. Dive in just as the deluge begins. Rain on
the roof brings instant, deep sleep.
Tuesday--August 2, 2005
Trail Day--42
Trail Mile--15.9/821
Location--Summit Lake YNP
The rain ends sometime during the night and the day dawns clear and
cool.
There are two or three different ways to reconnect with the CDT this
side of Yellowstone. I choose the short, direct one--that requires
a half-mile bushwhack. I'm able to work my way through the infant
evergreens (this whole area burned along with the Yellowstone in
'98) and the dead, burned blowdowns, and find the trail just fine.
On the trail again, and in a short while I meet my first northbound
thru-hiker, trail name Trauma, from New York State. He's
hiked the IAT and knows Dick Anderson and many other of my friends
along the IAT in Maine, New Brunswick and Quebec. We have a grand
time talking trail--and about mutual friends before heading our
separate ways. Good luck, and congratulations, Trauma.
Finally put Montana and Idaho behind me at twelve, over 800 miles in
these two states. With my tramping through on the L&C NHT last
year, I've put in over 1,600 miles in these two states. Two down
now on the CDT, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico to go.
I'm in to Summit Lake by four, prepare my evening meal, then hike on
toward Yellowstone. The now predictable afternoon thunderstorm
drives me into my tent at seven.
Knees complaining more today--but I get in the miles anyway.
Wednesday--August 3, 2005
Trail Day--43
Trail Mile--19.3/840
Location--Shoshone Lake, YNP
Rains off and on all night, but the day dawns clear again. I'm
limping down the trail by eight. Can't seem to get the kinks out
this morning. The knees are remarkably troublesome. Sweet Lord,
keep sending me along, you know I'm not a quitter.
Reach the first geyser basin, Biscuit Basin, by eleven. The CDT
follows the walking paths past the most spectacular of the pools and
geysers. Get the traditional shot of Old Faithful. The trail
passes right by.
Pick up supplies for three days at the YNP General Store, get my
backcountry permit, some mail off, then head south.
More geyser basins at Shoshone Lake. YNP, what an amazing place.
Never seen so many folks having a good time! Me, too. Knees come
around in the afternoon and the hike on south to Shoshone Lake is
very pleasant.
In the evening, and nearing my designated campsite, I meet Ben, one
of the backcountry rangers here in Yellowstone. It was near dusk
and he was heading for Lake Shoshone, to his kayak there, and the
trip down the lake to a backcountry patrol cabin tucked away in a
cove. As we stood and talked, enjoying the sights of one of the
largest geyser basins in all of Yellowstone--just the two of us, Ben
remarked, "Think about this when you're enjoying the solitude of
your backcountry campsite on the lake tonight. I heard on my radio a
few moments ago that every hotel and lodge room, every regular
campground slot in the Park, all are full tonight."
As the lake stills and the evening turns nigh, echoes across Lake
Shoshone the unmistakably shrill, eerie-hollow call of the sandhill
crane. The break of silence ushers in such a peaceful, quiet time.
Ah yes, Ben, we do enjoy the solitude!
Thursday--August 4, 2005
Trail Day--44
Trail Mile--21.9/862
Location--Heart Lake, YNP
Something struck me as interesting while in the Park, while seeing
and passing all the folks out enjoying Yellowstone. Suppose I
shouldn't be surprised, but it seemed that roughly only one out of
four individuals (or groups of individuals) was Caucasian. I saw
not a single black in the hundreds and hundreds of people rushing
about. Of the one in four, I heard only about half speaking
English. The world may not love we Americans, but they sure love
coming here and seeing the marvels and enjoying the beauty that is
our nation--and we're happy to have them.
Heart Lake has a small but interesting geyser basin all its own.
Little bubbling/boiling pots and kettles of steam, and small
volcano-coned geyser spouts, some no larger than a donut. If
hardboiled eggs suit your fancy, this place could whip you out a
crate or two in no time!
The trail passes right by the Heart Lake Ranger Patrol Cabin. The
resident ranger, Richard Jones, greets me by the tool shed. "Got
your backcountry permit," he asks with a smile. I drop my pack on
his porch and we talk about the Park and his job here. He kindly
changes my campsite to one that's much more suitable and along my
way, where I can have an open campfire to prepare my evening
meal--and get in five more miles to boot.
I'm in just as the sun sets behind the rugged silhouette of Mount
Sheridan. Heart Lake, and this place of such majestic
beauty--tonight it's all mine!
Get a cooking and warming fire going in good order. What a
blessing; the skeeters have backed off. Oh, what a blessing. Their
incessant attack can sure wear on a fellow.
Dear friends, who've kept me in your prayers, thank you! I'm still
poppin' the coated aspirin and vitamin-I like candy, but I have done
so much better today. What a joy to hike without the constant knee
pain. Thank you, friends--and thank you, Lord, thank you!
Friday--August 5, 2005
Trail Day--45
Trail Mile--20.8/883
Location--The Divide, South of Fox Park
There was surprisingly little traffic on the Yellowstone backcountry
trails, though they're well marked and groomed. I did meet a
family, grandma included (carrying a ton), on their way back to
Heart Lake trailhead. They were into the climb up from the lake.
Grandma kept repeating, "My feet, oh my poor feet." Sure hope they
made it out okay.
I'm hiking from Heart Lake by eight, to another glorious day.
I'm leaving the Park today to enter the Teton Wilderness, but not
before getting off trail. I miss a trail fork and climb too high
above the Snake River and get into a literal hell of blowdowns.
There's a trail, though, and I struggle along for nearly an hour
before realizing the trail I need to be on is right next the River,
nice, clear, groomed trail. I bushwhack down and am on my way
again.
Finally see "Yogi" today, while struggling in the blowdowns, so that
off-trail ordeal was well worth it. Nice sized brown bear. He
didn't hang around long. I tried getting my camera out, but he was
up and over the ridge in no time.
In the evening, I meet some fellows doing a frog study (yes,
surprisingly, there are peepers up here).
Make very good time today and get far beyond my planned destination
for the evening. Climb to the Divide, there to pitch by a high-held
glacial pond. I huddle by my little fire until the chill of the
high country urges me along to my humble shelter.
Saturday--August 6, 2005
Trail Day--46
Trail Mile--40.9/924
Location--Togwotee Pass Lodge/Cowboy Village, hitch to Dubois
No, I didn't hike forty-one miles today. I've managed to pick up
mileage each of the past three days, so I was able to shoot for
Togwotee today. Probably did more like 25 or 26 miles. I'm just
too lazy to split my itinerary mileage, so I just lumped it together
to preserve the posted mileages I have up for the remainder of the
journey.
This area is very popular for pack trips into the wild, and the
trail today is like a highway. It's flat, and I haul. Meet a
number of pack teams, both directions, all with their weathered old
cowpoke trail bosses--and the pale, red-faced "tinhorns" bouncing
along behind. Also, lots of folks heading for a party back in a
remote place called Hawk's Rest.
I follow an alternate route down to the South Fork of the Buffalo
River, then over and across bridges on both the South and North
Buffalo. Glad I didn't have to ford these two rivers. Deep,
rushing current, both.
Make the final climb to Togwotee Pass Lodge/Cowboy Village and am at
the highway by a little before seven.
Homemade, another southbound thru-hiker, is standing on the
road shoulder with his thumb out, hoping for a ride to Dubois. I
join him and we share pleasant conversation.
In awhile a van slows and pulls to the side. "I'm Dave from Maine,"
smiles the driver as he greets us. I see the Appalachian National
Scenic Trail decal on his back window right away, so I know we've
got a ride to Dubois.
Great conversation on the way in. Dave is a climber, loves the
dizzying heights. Just came down from scaling one of the Teton
sharptops today, the one right next the Sentinel. Good for you,
Dave, I'm thinking. I'll stay on the (relatively flat) trail, thank
you!
We're in Dubois by a little before nine. Get a room at the very
nice Stagecoach Inn, then rush to the Cowboy Cafe for a steak and
baked potato before they close at nine.
A long, but very rewarding day. The knees are holding; what a
blessing!
Sunday--August 7, 2005
Trail Day--47
Trail Mile--00.0/924
Location--Dubois, WY
Sunday, a day for rest, the first one for me since beginning this
odyssey 47 days ago. Picked up an extra day yesterday, so am taking
it off today.
Lots to do. Catch up on journal entries, email friends and family,
sew up my ragged clothing and gear, and just rest--for a most
welcome change.
Monday--August 8, 2005
Trail Day--48
Trail Mile--20.5/945
Location--Near Leeds Creek
Nice town, Dubois. Fine Motel, Stagecoach--and everything nearby.
Shop enough food for seven nights, eight days. This is the longest
stretch without resupply, some 170 miles.
At the post office, the clerk tells me that Dubois has no police
department. The sheriff takes care of things for the city. So
there's no reason waiting until I reach the city limits to start
hitching. Don't remember if I mentioned that it's illegal to
hitchhike in Wyoming. So, right outside the post office, out goes
my thumb. Bingo, not a half-dozen cars pass and this petite young
lady, Elizabeth, stops and picks me up. I can't believe my luck.
She drops me off below Togwotee Pass, where the trail crosses. I
have skipped ten or so miles of roadwalking between Cowboy Village
and the road-crossing here below the pass. Figure I've paid my dues
on roadwalking. This is not a pure, continuous-linked hike by any
stretch.
The trail begins on a woods road. Somewhere, I miss a turn and get
off-trail, so I decide to bushwhack (I never seem to learn). It
appeared to be a shortcut back to get me back on track. Well, I'm
off-trail for tonight, somewhere near the Divide. I've completely
missed Sheridan Pass, where the trail crosses.
Perhaps I'll get straightened out in the morning--not going to worry
myself about it tonight.
Tuesday--August 9, 2005
Trail Day--49
Trail Mile--20.5/945
Location--Short of Roaring Fork Bridge
I continue bushwhacking the "shortcut." GPS (My support crew in
Missouri sent me a new one), says I'm still a half-mile from the
trail. Finally intersect it, a snowmobile route, right on top of
the Divide. It carries me along for several miles. Oh yes, then I
miss another turn, the one leading to Lake of the Woods. I end up
on an all-weather gravel road. Can't believe it, this is an actual
shortcut!
Then I promptly miss another turn, putting me over a mile from the
trail. Another bushwhack. Finally make it to the Highline Pack
Trail, to follow it several more miles. In the evening I end up on
a quad-trac rut where I set camp under the spruce. I think I'm
off-trail--again.
Wednesday--August 10, 2005
Trail Day--50
Trail Mile--20.2/988
Location--Short of Trail Creek Park
Well, I'm not supposed to be on this quad-track trail, but it looks
like it goes to Gunsight Pass, where I need to cross. It doesn't.
A fault of mine (one of many)--I'd rather take a lashing than turn
back, so I bushwhack over the Divide--again. Thence to crash
straight down the other side. I'm in the Winds for sure now.
They're part of the Teton, Bridger Wilderness. I camp short of the
pull to Trail Creek Park.
Thursday--August 11, 2005
Trail Day--51
Trail Mile--18.9/1007
Location--Short of Fall Creek
Camped last night below Three Forks Park. It's a long, hard climb
up to Vista Pass and Cubs Rock Pass this morning. Constant rocks.
High, rough, wild country, tundra-like.
I'm hiking (stumbling along in the rocks) at 11,000 feet. Lots of
glacial lakes. No one else on the trail.
I pull up short of my destination for the day, Fall Creek, but it's
getting dusk and I'm just too tired to continue.
The evening turns very cold. Would you believe the skeeters are
still after me!
Knees cooperating.
Where I camp, I meet Jeff and Steffey Swain from Pinedale. They
have packed in by horse and are spending a couple weeks in the high
country. What a pleasant change, having others around.
Friday--August 12, 2005
Trail Day--52
Trail Mile--18.6/1026
Location--Near East Fork River
This morning, just as I'm preparing to break camp, Jeff comes over
and invites me for coffee. What a kind thing. I dearly miss my
coffee in the morning. I join them!
Jeff knows the area up and back and goes over potential routes to
take. He even loans me one of his maps. I'm not out and on the
trail until ten! Today I'm making good progress, though the tread is
rough and rocky. I dearly wanted to hike Cirque of the Towers, but
a Forest Service employee I met today said that snow is in the
forecast for areas above 9,000 feet. The Towers are well above
ten. Not a good idea to go in with the skimpy foul weather gear I'm
packing, so I opt to pass the Cirque--a disappointment. I also skip
Big Sandy Lodge, where many hikers send extra supplies.
Today, again, I'm hiking at 10,000 feet. More rocks, lots of
high-held lakes. Still in the Bridger Wilderness.
The evening turns very cold, but no snow. I pitch in the cover of
boulders and spruce. Didn't make it to Temple Lake.
Saturday--August 13, 2005
Trail Day--53
Trail Mile--18.3/1044
Location--Past Temple Lake
There's frost everywhere this morning.
Today will be remembered for the climb up and over Temple Pass, near
10,000 Feet. At the Pass, I meet a family from Seattle, with two
young children--just when I thought I was becoming the great
mountain climber. The youngsters were popping right along, bright
smiles!
A storm comes in late afternoon and it turns very cold. See more
moose.
At Little Sandy Lake I lose the trail again, but I know it's nearby
and I'm sure to locate it in the morning.
Camp again in the cover of boulders and Spruce. Very cold, windy
night.
Sunday--August 14, 2005
Trail Day--54
Trail Mile--30.3/1075
Location--Lander, WY
No, I didn't hike thirty miles today, just picked up another day.
I manage to find faint trail this morning. The climb to the Divide
is marked by small cairns, and I'm able to follow them okay. I'm on
the Pacific side of the Divide for the first time in awhile.
The trail is dropping now as I leave the Winds and the Bridger
Wilderness.
Another wrong turn late in the day but I recover and reach the
highway to Lander by seven.
At the road gate, a family camping nearby befriends me with a cold
fruit drink and a piece of fried chicken. On the road shoulder now,
Bill, a fellow I'd talked to earlier in the day along the dusty
two-track, is heading back from a day fishing the East Fork of the
Sandy. He sees me standing with my thumb out and picks me up. What
luck! He drives me all the way to Lander.
In Lander I check into the Pronghorn Motel--and just have time to
hit their cafe for the best t-bone steak and baked potato I've had
in a long time.
Of the eight days food, I've got one package of beef ramen and
quarter of a bag of M&Ms left. Cut that one close!
Monday--August 15, 2005
Trail Day--55
Trail Mile--00.0/1075
A zero mile day.
I've caught up with Zack and Buddha, and along with
Garlic Man and Andrew Knutsen (a local triple-crowner) we enjoy
a fine breakfast together.
Stop by the Bureau of Land Management for information on the water
sources in the Great Divide Basin, where I'll be headed tomorrow.
Relax, catch up on email and journals.
Tuesday--August 16, 2005
Trail Day--56
Trail Mile--24.5/1100
Location--Upper Mormon Spring
My stay in Lander was most enjoyable; nice town, kind folks.
I join Zack, Buddha and Andrew at 7:30 for breakfast at the
Oxbow before Andrew shuttles us back to the trail. Zack and
Buddha treat us but they've decided to take another zero day
in Lander.
Ten o'clock and Andrew has me back on the trail at South Pass City.
I've been told that the middle of August is not the time to be
crossing the Great Divide Basin, but looks like I might get a break
today; it's overcast and cool.
The trail out is two-track gravel. As I crest the hill out from
South Pass City, seems the whole Basin appears before me. Not a
tree or anything green anywhere in sight. Just rocks, sand and
sagebrush. Not long and the wind starts kicking from the
west-northwest bringing a noticeable drop in temperature. I stop,
put on my long-sleeved shirt over my "T" (had another one sent from
home) and get my poncho out, just in case. Not long again, the rain
starts as the wind kicks harder. On goes the poncho. Looks like
the least I've got to worry about is the heat.
The trail through the Basin is well marked but I still manage to
make a wrong turn. I soon see the error and am back on track.
The Basin is low, compared to the surrounding rim, but I'm still
above 6,000 feet and climbing. Been told I'll see many pronghorn
and wild horses in here. Keeping my eye open, but none along today.
The rain keeps on steady all afternoon, and it's uncomfortably cold.
From the information provided by the BLM office in Lander, I've
entered the coordinates for Upper Mormon Spring. My little GPS
clicks down the miles, with the arrow pointing me right for the
spring. Late evening and the spring comes right in at the zero
reading. Good water and plenty of dead sagebrush for my evening
cooking and warming fire.
The rain has finally stopped. Oh, and hey, there's nary a mosquito
out here in the desert!
Wednesday--August 17, 2005
Trail Day--57
Trail Mile--21.7/1122
Location--Past Crooks Mountain
I'm up and out to a cool, clear day. Shortly, behind me comes
another hiker--Steve. He'd also camped near the spring. We hike
along sharing good conversation--until the day darks over and the
cold rain descends again. We keep trudging along into it. Thought
I'd have a couple of days, at least here in the high desert, without
wet feet, but it's not going to happen.
Lots of pronghorn today--and cows and sheep--but no wild horses.
The ponds where we'd planned on getting water for the evening are
disgusting, churned to a muddy froth and contaminated by hundreds of
sheep. The shepherd that tends the flock has a little camper on the
ridge above. We go there. He's out with the sheep. We decide he
won't miss a little of his clear, clean water stashed in his water
tanks.
The storm finally moves off to the east, leaving the evening cool
and clear. We head on up the next rise, find a couple of flat spots
by a gulch and call it a day.
What a pleasant change--having someone to hike with!
Thursday--August 18, 2005
Trail Day--58
Trail Mile--28.0/1150
Location--Past A&M Reservoir
I head out a little after seven. Steve's feet are weary from the
long miles we banged out yesterday, around thirty, so he hangs
back. His planned route will take him up from the Basin and onto
the rim. Where out paths diverge, I leave a short note for him in
the sand, wishing him a safe journey. Steve's already done New
Mexico north to the Colorado line. He's southbound now, as am I,
from Canada, with a little over 800 miles remaining to complete his
CDT thru-hike--congratulations, Steve!
Not long, the sky darks over again and the cold wind kicks anew, out
of the west-northwest just as before. The tread is very good and I
make the miles. Lots more pronghorn, maybe a hundred or more--and
horses--I see a beautiful paint, a pure white, a pure black with a
colt, and numerous other roan. They hurry away. I try for a
picture, but I'm afraid they're too far off.
At four, the rain starts, the wind comes harder, and it turns bitter
cold. Intense flashes of lightning. Crashing thunder. The storm
and the driving rain move with me. For the next four hours the
lightning and thunder are directly overhead. This is the most
intense electric storm I've been in since being struck by lightning
in Quebec. I become sore afraid that this might be my time. I pray
to God for just a few moments break, so I can pitch my tent and get
out of it before dark.
My prayers are answered, as the break comes just before
eight-thirty, and I hasten to pitch between the scatter of thorny
cactus and sagebrush. I'm in just as the wind returns. I must
cling to the walls of my little tent for fear it will be ripped
away. It's well after nine before the storm moves on east. I am
soaked. My clothes are soaked. But somehow I've managed to keep my
sleeping bag dry. What a blessing to climb in and finally get warm
again.
Lord, oh Lord, what a day!
Friday--August 19, 2005
Trail Day--59
Trail Mile--43.5/1194
Location--Rawling, WY
I'm up and out again by a little after seven. The sky appears very
iffy. Sure enough, by nine the rain comes in again. But this mild
storm proves short-lived as it quickly moves past and the late
morning sun burns it away.
The hike today follows a pipeline cut, nearly straight, up, over and
down the rolling hills of the Great Divide Basin. The tread, a bit
sandy at times, remains good and I make fair time. Many more
pronghorn, also horses. And I see the goofy looking little horned
toad today.
I'm shooting for Rawlins now--a day ahead of schedule. So the
mileage above actually reflects a two day additive. Actually, the
individual mileages for the past four days are: Tuesday-25,
Wednesday-30, Friday-36, and Saturday-28, for a total of 119.
The pipeline road turns to county paved, the county paved to US281,
bringing a roadwalk of some 18 miles to town.
I'm hot and weary, but I'm in by five-twenty.
This day ahead that I've just pulled? Ahh yes, I'll burn it right
away for a welcome day off tomorrow!
Saturday--August 20, 2005
Trail Day--60
Trail Mile--00.0/1194
Location--Rawling, WY
A zero mile day, as I rest, sort my bounce box, and generally keep
my feet up and take it easy.
Two doors down last night, lo and behold, appeared Leslie and Dave.
Met them way back in East Glacier Park, the day I got off the train
two months ago. They've also hiked New Mexico already. So, they'll
finish their CDT thru-hike at the Colorado/New Mexico line around
the end of September. We shared a great time together, recounting
experiences along the trail.
Sunday--August 21, 2005
Trail Day--61
Trail Mile--20.6/1215
Location--Past Lone Tree Creek
The day and one-half break was good for me, but I'm hiking out
pretty much locked up this morning. Can't get my arms or legs
moving freely. Finally acting my age, I suppose. Takes better part
of two hours (and as many Vitamin-I) to finally work the kinks out.
The trail from of Rawlins is also a long roadwalk. Memories of the
last two hikes come back to me. They were almost total roadwalks.
I squint to see the road as it shrinks to a point toward the
horizon.
Rawlins is an oasis in the middle of this arid (say desert) high
plains prairie. It's tucked away down in a wide, open-ended cove.
Trees grow there, but only in yards and landscaped business areas,
where they receive much care through periodic watering.
Lots of frontier/old west history here. The road I'm hiking along
today, which heads me back up to the Divide, crosses the old
Overland Trail. That old wagon trail followed the Platt River up to
its headwaters, then wiggled its way through Bridger Pass just west
of here. Passing through the Great Divide Basin, I hiked along the
route of the old Oregon Trail and the Seminoe Cutoff branch of the
old California Trail. From 1843, and for 25 years--until the
railroad came through, over half a million folks journeyed west over
these old trails.
Jim Bridger left his mark on the area. Many land features
hereabouts are named after him. I mentioned Bridger Pass. And
there's Bridger County. And tomorrow I'll be hiking past Bridger
Peak, located on the Divide.
All the old towns along southern Wyoming are/were railroad towns,
which sprang up along the route of the Union Pacific
Transcontinental Railroad. The old Mormon Trail and the Pony
Express route also came through here.
Toward evening, and as I continue climbing, I'm leaving the prairie
to enter the sub-alpine mountain zone. Here I see the first trees
in the wild for better part of the past week. There's quaking
aspen, Englemann spruce, fir, and lodgepole pine. Oh, and there's
still plenty of sagebrush, enough old dead, stunted snags of which
I'm able to get a fine cooking and warming fire going. A kind
Native American stopped to offer me water--a blessing, as I haven't
yet reached the first brook flowing from the mountains.
A beautiful sunset. Ha, somehow the afternoon thunder busters
didn't find me today!
Monday--August 22, 2005
Trail Day--62
Trail Mile--23.2/1238
Location--Past Jim Creek
Just about got the road walked out yesterday. For this morning I
don't go far until the trail breaks away to a two-track, then a
single-track, as it climbs, taking me back up to the Divide.
Yup, doesn't take me long to get lost. Sure glad for my GPS and the
compass rose--with coordinates--on each map. No problem getting
straightened out and back on track, but not before I manage to get
up and walk away from another pair of sunglasses. Isn't this the
fourth time I've pulled this stunt? Jeez, you'd think by now I'd
have come up with some way of keeping track of my sunglasses. Sure
it's funny. Go ahead and laugh. I'm laughing!
Saw lots more antelope yesterday; not so many today, but up here,
there's mule deer and white tail. Heard many coyotes last night.
What a mournful call. Sends chills right up your spine.
Today I'm back in the rocks again. The two track roads are littered
with rocks. The trail is a ribbon of rocks. Appropriate
name--Rocky Mountains. Take away the rocks and the pile of dust
left wouldn't make a decent-sized hill.
Tuesday--August 23, 2005
Trail Day--63
Trail Mile--15.0/1253
Location--Encampment, WY
The trail stayed to the Divide all afternoon and evening last.
There's no water on the Divide. It's the high land, no streams, no
springs. I was out of water and it was turning dusk. What to do?
Ah, but what luck. Just below Bridger Peak, which has its head in
the sky at 10,000 feet, just off the north slope, I found two huge
fields of snowpack. And below the peak there were small wooded
areas of spruce. Wood for my evening fire and snow for water. I
pitched in the shelter of the spruce, back from the cold, harsh
wind. Got pitched, got a fine fire going, and scampered down to the
snow drift for a bag of the white stuff just before dark. What a
fine evening it turned to be! I sat by the warming fire for the
longest time, watching the lights from the little communities of
Encampment and Riverside flicker in the valley below.
I've only four miles to the highway this morning, where I hope to
hitch a ride down to Encampment. There's a motel there, a bar, a
cafe, and a small grocery store. Maybe I'll get there in time for a
good breakfast.
I reach SR70 a little after nine. No traffic. I mean NO traffic.
I stand at the Pass for over half an hour. Not a single vehicle--in
either direction. Finally, two vehicles go by--in the opposite
direction. This doesn't look very promising. Okay, it's twelve
miles to Encampment. That's four hours to hike it out. I'm out of
food. Gotta go in. Start walkin' Nomad.
Four miles and an hour and twenty minutes later, the fourth vehicle
going my way stops to pick me up. Thanks, dear Lord, thanks. The
old codger drops me off right downtown Encampment. I'm in before
noon--but not for breakfast. The two cafes are closed Mondays and
Tuesdays. The grocery store is out of business. Ah, but the little
motel is doing fine. Get a room, a shower, then the motel owner
drives me to Riverside, where I'm able to resupply for the hike on
to Steamboat Springs. Also get the best burger and fries I've had
in ages. As my friend, Wolfhound, would say, "Life is good."
Wednesday--August 24, 2005
Trail Day--64
Trail Mile--19.9/1273
Location--Just Past Colorado Line
Had a fine stay in Encampment. Neat little town, much like the
farm-to-market village I grew up in.
In Encampment, everyone knows one another, helps one another--like
Connie, the barmaid at Pine Lodge Cafe/Bar. She knew I'd have a
time hitching back up to the Divide this morning, so while chatting
with her yesterday, she offered to drive me up. We meet at the Cafe
for breakfast, then we're off. She has me back on the trail by
ten. Thanks, Connie. Oh, and thanks, Dezi, owner/innkeeper at
Vacher's Bighorn Lodge--for your hospitality and kindness.
The hike today is mainly along the smooth-flowing ridge that can be
the Great Divide--when it chooses to be kind to we intrepids. The
range here is the Sierra Madre in the Medicine Bow National Forest.
Where the Divide is flat like this, it's usually pretty much beat
down. Through here today, I'm following the old Center Sheep
Driveway, kept widened by countless quadtracs.
At four-ten, I cross the border between Wyoming and Colorado. Three
states down now, over half the hike finished--two more states to
go. Thank you, Lord, for the wide, safe passage. Guide me on and
keep me in your care.
Thursday--August 25, 2005
Trail Day--65
Trail Mile--20.8/1294
Location--Just Past Middle Fork, Elk River
Finding water has been a near-constant problem for the past many
miles through southwest Wyoming. But here, this morning, that all
changes. The mountains of Colorado see plenty of rainfall, and when
the trail wanders just the least bit from the crown of the Divide,
there are numerous little brooks and spring seeps. No more lugging
50-100 ounces of water--at least till I hit New Mexico.
Lots more wildlife now; mule deer whitetail, little chippies and
squirrel, all kinds of birds, most with their very own song to
sing. It's certainly a welcome change, having their company. Many
of the birds are inquisitive, flying along from evergreen to aspen
to evergreen ahead of me as they chirp away.
Late morning, comes along Cactus and Bonner,
northbound thru-hikers. They hope to make it to Canada before the
snow really starts flying. We enjoy a fine chat, then I wish them
success and a safe journey on. As I turn to continue my trek, I'm
thinking, "Sure glad I'm heading south, not north."
I've lucked out the past two days; managed to dodge the afternoon
thunder busters. The one building today, which appears to be
heading directly my way veers off to the southeast just ahead of
me. Hey, I'm actually hiking south for a change!
I hike on past my planned destination, as there's still plenty of
daylight. Up, up and more up I go as I head for Three Island Lake.
I can see the light of evening through the trees above. It's the
pass just above the lake. I judge it to be perhaps an hour further
on. Two hours later, and at dusk, I judge the pass to be perhaps an
hour further on! The Rockies are so enormous. Trying to judge
distance out here can be totally bewildering, as this situation
proves. There's no getting used to the expanse. In my case, there
seems to be no improvement in judgment--none!
I take water from the lake outfall and pitch for the evening,
perhaps just a short distance (perhaps not) from Three Island Lake.
Friday--August 26, 2005
Trail Day--66
Trail Mile--20.7/1315
Location--Beyond Buffalo Pass
The lovely Three Island Lake was just above where I camped last, so
I had nearly reached it. Just as well I didn’t, as there's no
camping allowed near the lake.
All around me this morning, on the grasses, sedges and low bush,
there's frost. And on the lake, the most remarkable steam shroud
hovering there, the sun mixing and turning it in glistening shades
of gold and silver.
I hike along for the first hour with my hands in my pockets, sticks
tucked under my arm. By late morning, and as I once more reach the
high, open meadows on the Divide, the sun has warmed me nicely.
The trail pops along, rolling from dark green-grass seeps below to
bare-rock domes above. It's then I see it looming ahead of me--Lost
Ranger Mountain. I know the trail goes up and over, but I can't
believe I'm going to climb up there. But the ascent starts soon
enough, gently at first, then around and through rock-strewn side
spurs, across two large, sloping snowfields, to finally turn
straight up. The final 300-400 feet take all the strength left in
me. I can hear the wind howling around the last rocky spur, which
until now has protected me. As I crest the summit the force of the
gale pitches me away. It is bitter cold. I fumble for my GPS with
my stick-stiff fingers and manage to turn it on. When the little
gadget is locked on at least four satellites it will give out
elevation. Here on Lost Ranger it's reading 13,347 feet.
The descent is a freefall, through more boulder and rock-filled
tread. If the remaining 700 miles of Colorado are anything like
what I've just experienced, I don't know if I'll be up to it.
But just as I'm suffering these doubts, the trail miraculously
flattens, the rocks leave, and the day warms. I hike along with
total ease for the remainder of the day. Mulling most of the day, I
finally resolve to take the oncoming mountain peaks--when and only
as they come, and doubt no more. I managed Lost Ranger. I'll get
up and over the rest just fine.
At Buffalo Pass, as is the case in so many other places along the
trail, there's no marker on the other side of the pass. Searching,
I find a trail used by the quadtrac and motorcycle folks. I hike it
on up for better part of two miles before finding a sign indicating
that I'm, in fact, on the CDT. Seems the folks working the trail
like to put up all kinds of CDT signs and markers where there's
"pretty" trail, but avoid any indication of the trail's existence in
the not-so-pretty places, like here.
Lots of quadtrac folks, bicyclists and day hikers in this last
section, a change from the near-total seclusion along the trail in
Wyoming.
At dusk, I take water from one of the many high-held lakes and carry
it a mile or so to a sheltered evergreen copse.
The evening fire gives me a hot meal for warm innards, warms my
outards, and lights the night as I set my camp.
I'll long remember this day, the snowfield crossings, the
leg-numbing climb, the bitter, howling wind--and the doubting. Ahh,
but then, too, I'll remember the sweet satisfaction of success!
Saturday--August 27, 2005
Trail Day--67
Trail Mile--16.7/1332
Location--US40 at Rabbit Ears Pass/Steamboat Springs
I'm awake at dawn but can't muster the nerve to roll out to the
chill of the early morning. I finally break camp and get on trail
by seven-thirty. More frost, more hands in the pockets.
The trail is most kind this morning, only nine or so miles to Rabbit
Ears Pass. I reach there by eleven.
What memories, this place. The large boulder holding the plaque
commemorating the dedication of the highway over Rabbit Ears, it's
still right here. I was only nine or ten then, sis was maybe four.
That was nearly sixty years ago. Dad took us on a trip through the
Rockies one fall. I remember to this day first seeing the
remarkable rock formation above the Divide for which this pass is
named. The bronze plaque is still here too, badly faded now. The
narrow old highway is full of cracks, potholes and patches. Few
pass this way any more, as this old road has been given up for a new
Rabbit Ears crossing further south. I linger in the middle of the
old roadway for the longest time. It is quiet now, no traffic like
back then. Oh, if we could only go back, to relive just a few
special times. But time is our captor and we must obey. Dad, mom,
these memories, they are so precious--I miss you so.
The trail crosses the old road and leads on south. My thumb goes
out at the new pass. The cars fly by. Finally a fellow from
Tellico Plains, back east, stops and picks me up. I'm in Steamboat
for lunch.
Sunday--August 28, 2005
Trail Day--68
Trail Mile--22.0/1354
Location--Indian Creek
Southbounders Dave and Leslie are right across the street at the
Rabbit Ears Motel. Had a good visit. Dave brought by some goodies
to boost my energy, snacks and dried veggies--thanks, Dave!
Steamboat Springs is a touristy town, with all the usual front
street shops--high end designer wear, fancy jewelry, posh
restaurants with menu items topping a hundred bucks, fudge and
ice-cream shops, you name it. But I liked the town, believe it or
not! Had to pay seventy bucks for a room, but it was a seventy
buck/room kind of motel--a good value. All the usual retail stores,
like WalMart, Safeway, the discounts and drugs, etc., they're
located on the south side of town, away from the old downtown area.
Neat layout. And the merchants apparently foot the bill for the
free bus service all around. Smart merchants. Yup, neat town,
Steamboat Springs.
I'm up, pack on, and out the door by nine. Get the bus to the city
limits where my thumb goes out. Five minutes and I've got a ride
with a fellow who's headed for Rabbit Ears to hike the mountain with
his family and friends. He drops me off within a quarter-mile of
where I hitched in yesterday. I'd planned on skipping the roadwalk
from where the new highway crosses the pass, over to CO14, but soon
have second thoughts and go ahead and hike the four miles or so.
Today is mostly a roadwalk, beginning with US40, then CO14, then
gravel secondary, and finally, high clearance unmaintained FS roads.
By late evening, and just before turning off CO14 comes Greg, the
kind fellow who gave me the ride up earlier in the day. "Hiked
Rabbit Ears for you--a great day. Need any water or anything? How
about a ride to the top of the hill?" he says as he jumps from his
truck to greet me again. I give him my card with the
nimblewillnomad.com website on it and encourage him to let his
daughters, Gretchen and Ann, sign my guestbook. Thanks, Burkholders,
all (and Sadie the lab, too), for your kindness!
Near dusk (and still climbing) I begin seeing folks camped all along
the FS road. Looks like hunting season is cranking up. Primitive
(bow and black powder) will be first.
It's been a long day, back in the Routt National Forest, the Rabbit
Ears Range now, but I make it to Indian Creek, there to top off my
water bottles, then it's on a little further up the mountain to a
secluded spot in the spruce. The evening fire is a most welcome old
friend.
Monday--August 29, 2005
Trail Day--69
Trail Mile--20.4/1374
Location--Near Haystack Mountain
It's a challenge to roll out and get moving early when it's cold and
the frost is on. The longer I stay snug in my down bag the warmer
it becomes outside--but I manage to get moving by seven-thirty.
The Divide along this Rabbit Ears Range is rugged and the trail
tries to stay with it. Lots of wild ups and downs, a thousand feet
or more of vertical change at times. One stretch is a razor-sharp
hogback, no wider than 50-75 feet with near-vertical walls straight
off either side for better part of half a mile. It's breathtaking
scenery but unbelievably rugged--jutting boulders, loose rock,
narrow off-camber tread. Each foot placement is critical. Gotta
stop if I want to look away.
This day has been one of the most physically demanding of this
entire journey; my energy is completely spent, but I must yet go
down the mountain a fair distance for water if I plan to have a hot
meal tonight.
At dusk, and back near the ridge again, water bottles full, I find a
flat area and an old fire ring. This is home.
Tuesday--August 30, 2005
Trail Day--70
Trail Mile--19.1/1393
Location--Past Ruby Lake
This old lumberjack's camp I've pitched at is open to the east, so
the sunrise brings immediate warmth to my little estate. That gets
me up and moving by seven. Good thing, for as my map indicates, the
trail crosses tight 100 foot contour lines nearly all day. That
means more near-vertical ascents and descents. These kind of pulls
and drops are a major chug up here at ten to eleven thousand feet.
My energy level has been noticeably lagging the past three days and
I've suffered a nagging headache, maybe running a mild fever. I
know it's futile; there's no way of keeping any pace through this
kind of tread anyway, so I slow to a stagger-on that this old worn
out heart can tolerate. Slow, slow ups, and scary don't-bust-it
downs. Perhaps one mile an hour for much of the day. Hard to make
twenty miles like this. "Just keep your head down and pull the
mountain, old man. There'll be daylight through the pine--you'll
see it soon enough--at the top."
I'd like to get into Grand Lake early tomorrow so I can find a room,
get a bath and launder these smelly old clothes, so I stay the trail
until dark. I manage an extra four miles past Ruby Lake. This sets
me up for a noonish arrival in town. I'm pleased with the day, but
pooped.
Oh my, reading this entry over, it sure enough sounds like I'm
miserable. You're probably wandering, "Why's he out there anyway;
what's the use!" Well, I have taken time today to find pleasure in
this trail, in this hike. I'm in the Never Summer Wilderness now,
rugged but picturesque--on the Never Summer Trail. It's a challenge
for sure, but at the same time, it's an experience--no, it's a
blessing few could ever know or understand.
I think the problem is: I've just had a bad attitude since that
four-hour thunder buster in the desert.
I pitch for the night at Bowen Lake. Cold, harsh wind. Warm fire.
I fix my sleeping pad behind me for a reflector. Hey--no skeeters!
Wednesday--August 31, 2005
Trail Day--71
Trail Mile--15.7/1409
Location--Grand Lake, CO
The wind calms during the night, and in the pine here by the lake,
encircled by lofty mountains, the morning dawns mild.
First order of the day is to climb to the ridge by that lofty
mountain. I'm pleased to find my stamina and energy level much
improved. I'm able to top the ridge in less than an hour. From
here, it's all downhill, from near 12,000 feet above Bowen, down to
8,000 feet at Grand Lake. Memorable views from the open ridge.
It's a bumpy rollercoaster all the way on the North Supply Trail.
Lots of loose rock plus off-camber skid plates to keep my
attention. This is definitely a don't-bust-it morning. But I
manage good time and arrive town right at noon.
Kind folks at the Bighorn Motel cut a rate deal for the old Nomad.
I hit the library to check the progress my Webmaster, Justin, has
been making in a total makeover of
www.nimblewillnomad.com. Wow, is it ever impressive!
Check out the photos. They ain't bad, and do they ever
load--whiz-pop and they're up, full page if you like. Thanks,
Justin! I know it's been a difficult task, but the new look is
stunning.
Ted, a local in the lumber trade, buys my evening meal, one of the
best rib eyes I've chomped into in many a moon--a tip-off from
Rhana, the morning cook at Bears Den and Paws Pub.
My tummy's full. My clothes' clean.
Now all to do--hit the grocery first thing in the morning and I'm on
my way to Silverthorne, where my "Support Crew," Joyce, is coming to
see this lonely old codger.
Thursday--September 1, 2005
Trail Day--72
Trail Mile--24.2/1433
Location--Near Caribou Lake
My stay in Grand Lake was most restful, much needed.
But for brief remissions, I have suffered an alarming loss in energy
and stamina. The rash on the back of my left leg, above the knee,
is continuing to spread and doesn't appear to be the usual skin
irritation, as from crossing paths with numerous noxious plant such
as thistle or dock.
The hike today is pretty much a cruise along and beside the
picturesque Shadow Mountain Lake. By afternoon, I'm at Monarch
Lake, where the climb begins in earnest, up and along Arapaho Creek.
By the time I reach Caribou Lake, my energy and strength are totally
spent. This loss of stamina is baffling and scary, as I have always
been blessed with boundless energy.
I stumble about, pitching camp, building a fire and fixing supper.
In my little tent and on my sleeping pad now, I find it difficult to
settle in comfortably, due to the nagging pain caused by sores along
the back of my left leg, and now up to my hip--a very restless
night.
Friday--September 2, 2005
Trail Day--73
Trail Mile--18.7/1452
Location--Just over James Peak
Frost all around again this morning. Sticks under arm and hands in
pocket, I manage to get out and going a little after seven.
The High Lonesome Trail meanders along, rolling up and down through
the forest of lodgepole, fir and spruce. But the climb comes soon
enough, past Devil's Thump Park, up the ridge and into the rocks
below Devil's Thumb Pass.
At the pass, the "trail" turns to the Divide, to follow it along
above 11,000 feet for the rest of the day.
My destination is James Peak, but I've been told not to camp on this
mountain, due to the high risk from exposure and the potential for
severe weather. James Peak is a domed pile of rocks that stands
well above 13,000 feet.
I struggle up through the rocks and over the top, to immediately
bale off the other side. It's a scary descent through the jumble of
boulders. Spikes of granite rise from the precipitous slopes to
reflect the harsh light of dusk. The cold wind comes as I search
the narrow chasm for a flat spot among the rocks.
This is the highest, narrowest and most exposed place I've ever had
to pitch camp. As the wind continues unabated I manage to get my
tent up by anchoring it with rocks. No hot meal tonight.
I am unable to sleep due to the intense pain along my left side.
Saturday--September 3, 2005
Trail Day--74
Trail Mile--16.7/1469
Location--Off trail at Silverthorne
The morning dawns cold and the
wind persists. As soon as there is light I'm up and climbing
again. First comes Mt. Bancroft at 13,250 feet, then it's down, up
and over Parry Peak at 13,400 feet. Next baleoff and boulder
scramble takes me up and over Mt. Eva at 13,100 feet, ditto for Mt.
Flora at 13,100 feet, and finally Colorado Mines Peak at 12,000
feet.
There is tread now, which I follow down to Berthoud Pass at 11,000
feet.
The climb back up to the Divide on the other side of the pass goes
straight up. My energy is in the tank. The climb is a crawl as I
dig my sticks and stagger up. By now I realize there is no way I'll
make it to Jones Pass, only sixteen miles for the day, nor will I
ever make Silverthorne tomorrow, a twenty-one mile day.
By the time I've struggled and pulled myself over Stanley Mtn. at
12,500 feet I am no longer able to continue.
A side trail leads down the mountain to the mines at Butler Gulch.
I take it. Near the mine entrance I'm offered a ride to Georgetown
and I-70.
Dear friends, my CDT southbound hike has come to an end, at least
for this year.
For the past number of days I've suffered a marked loss of energy
and stamina, along with a nagging headache and marginal fever. At
the time, I noticed two small sores on the back of my left leg. I
thought perhaps the irritation was from brushing the countless
thistle along the trail. The sores, however, have since spread. I
now suffer multiple, open lesions from just above the back of my
left knee, up my left thigh, all the way to the small of my back.
The pain has become so intense that I have been unable to sleep.
As I compose this final journal entry, I now know that I am
suffering, not from a rash, but from a disease known as herpes
zoster (shingles), a dangerous, potentially chronic, and extremely
painful condition.
Dwinda Joyce, my dear friend and support team, who is here to see me
in Silverthorne, diagnosed the condition immediately. She insisted,
and rightfully so, that I end my hike and return to Missouri with
her--to be seen and treated by her doctor.
As I write this, we are in eastern Kansas, near Topeka, heading
home.
Dear friends, for you and all who've taken inspiration from my
writings and from this adventure, I'm truly sorry I've let you
down. Please know that there is no one more disappointed about my
quitting than me. Quitting isn't my nature. The simple fact: I
could no longer continue.
But I am optimistic. There will come another day--there will be
another time. |